Wednesday, September 8, 2010

Placement of Brace Buttons

Now that we've addressed that braces should be worn with buttons (see previous post), where exactly should the buttons be located?

The placement of buttons along the waistline is critically important to wearing braces. It determines where the brace straps lie and the "line of the pants". In fact, for those who know, you can see when a man is wearing braces even when the braces are covered by a vest or jacket. This is because of the way the pant material drapes (falls) down the legs. Another indication is where the pants meet the shoes. Not convinced? This is best illustrated in a photo. Check out this vintage photograph of this slightly portly gentleman:

Even with a vest on I can tell he is wearing braces by the way his pants lie. The material is generally flush against his torso. If you know where to look you can see two lines that straighten the pant leg. One is over the centre pleat or line of the leg, and the other is to the side. I've highlighted them below:
 
These lines cannot be the result of a belt. Rather, they are caused by a brace button that is anchored at this point along the waistline. By placing the brace button at these locations, the pants lay flush and clean. Going further, I'd expect this gentlemen's braces underneath his vest to be something like this:


I've added a horizontal line for where I think his pant waistline is, and then the brace strap attached to the waistline, giving the visible signs of the pant lines. This gives a perfect drape as the pants fall straight from the waistline to the shoes and look very classy.

Unfortunately the hedge is blocking our view of his shoes. If we could see his shoes we would likely see a slight "break" in the pant materials that is maintained when the man moves. The pant hem touches the brim of the shoes without having excess materials at the bottom of the leg. This can only be achieved if the pants maintain their same position, relative to the body. And that can only be achieved with braces. If both of these are present, you can be sure the man is wearing braces. These are the sure signs that a man is wearing braces. To the trained eye, you can confidently say this man is wearing braces.

I've had people stare at my pants with their clean drape, with the pants falling gently over the shoes with no excess materials. When they don't see a belt, they ask me how my pants stay up. I'm ever so happy to reveal my secret: I pull back my suit jacket to reveal my braces and the clean lines that are create by braces and the proper button placements.

Therefore, when wearing braces, it is critical to know where to place the buttons to achieve the proper drape. Buttons that are too close to the mid-section are uncomfortable and get in the way. If the buttons are too far apart they do not adequately support the drape or pant lines. This is true for both the front and back of the pants.

Where to place brace buttons
Alan Flusser points out that there should be four buttons at the front: one button over 
each of the main pleats of the pants (inner buttons), and the other two just forward of the side seam (outer buttons). Always start with the main pleat for the inner button, as this is where you will achieve the proper drape and a clean line on the pants. It doesn't matter if it's pleated pants or flat front, there will always be a line that should be straight. The button over the main line/pleat will anchor the pants and create the perfect drape. All tuxedos are made this way to have a crisp, straight line.

Moving to the outer buttons at the front, the placement depends on the width of the brace tabs and the size of the wearer. Some inverse-V tabs are narrower, while some inverse-U tabs are wider (more on this below). I've found that when I place the buttons 3 to 4 inches from the button at the pleat to the next button, this accommodates most brace tabs and is comfortable and provides superior support. As for waist size, for portly individuals, I'd recommend a wider placement of 4 or 4.5 inches apart to provide more surface area on the waistline.

Notice the button placement at the waistline: inner button above
the main seam and outer button about 3-4 inches apart.
This achieves a nice drape of the pants

In  the back, there should be two buttons regardless of if you are wearing Y-back and X-back style braces. The buttons should be equidistant from the center of the fork of the braces, so it falls naturally. Here it depends on the style of braces you plan to wear – Y-back braces require buttons closer together (about 1.5 inch on each side of the middle seam). While buttons for X-back braces should be spaced a little farther apart. I’ve found that 2-3 inches on each side of middle seam is comfortable. If you happen to have 4 buttons with X-back braces (such as those illustrated below), then they should be farther apart.


Width between buttons
One common beginner mistake I see often is front buttons that are placed to close together (ie, less than 3 inches together). The placement of the buttons in the front of the pants is important to supporting the line of the pants. Let's review these two photos:

The one on the left has the buttons too close together, in addition to being too close to the centre of the pants. The one on the right has the buttons placed too far to the side, which supports the side seam but the main pleat and line will not be crisp. Aim for balance and support of the pants by positioning the buttons in between these 2 positions. This highlights the important of placing the front buttons on the main seam followed by the side seam. The placement of these buttons on the pants below could be improved by aligning them up with the front pleat.

Buttons should be aligned with the front seam,
generally with the pleat, marked by the red dots
If you are wearing military or regal apparel with a solid strip down the side of the pants, you may choose to support the side seam at the expense of the front seam. You may also be able to support both the main and side seam with certain the braces, depending on the size of the waistband and size of the brace tabs, such as in this photo:

When wearing braces with inverse-V tabs, if the button placement is improper, one tab may curve out from the waist. This looks strange and gets caught on things. I've circled an example in this photo below:


It is for this reason that, historically, inverse-V tab braces were made with one tab longer than the other, by about half an inch. The tabs that connect to buttons closer to the centre were longer than the tabs that were to the side seam to address this issue. This is one way to identify if inverse-V braces are vintage and more historically accurate.
 
Note, this problem does not arise with inverse-U tabs as the brace strap glides along the U-tab as it's not fixed in position.
 
Having worn braces for decades now, my preference is to have the front buttons placed as far apart as practical. This means above the main seam and above the side seam. This works out to the buttons being about 4 to 4.5 inches apart for how I like it. This provides superior coverage over the front of the waistline.

 
What if you are wearing clip-on suspenders - where do you place the clip? This is precisely the problem with clip-on suspenders - they do not adequately support the pants! You must compromise and place the clips either on the main seam or the the middle between the main seam and side seam. Try a number of locations and see what feels most comfortable for you.



Clip placement on the back
Just as the placement of the buttons on the front is important, it is even more important on the back. This is generally the place where newbie suspender-wearers get confused, as they will likely be wearing X-back style, and attach the clips either too close together or too far apart on the waistline:

1. If the buttons are too close together, you can get a wedgie.
2. If the buttons are too far along the pant waist, the pants will not be supported properly and will be uncomfortable when rotating.

Also, if the clips are too far apart, you may cause the waistline to bulge outward, ruining the flat line.

Therefore, it is critical that you determine the right balance for the rear buttons along the waistline. They should be equidistant from the center of the rear seam, but not too far that they create a bulge out. This exact distance depends on the size of the individual, the position of the back junction, and length of the back straps, so this will vary by suspenders and braces. Here is an example of appropriate distance of the straps at the rear:


Belt Loops
Pants or skirts to be worn with braces should not accommodate a belt and so should have no belt loops. More to the point, to be historically authentic, belt loops should be removed, if you will be wearing braces.  
 
Roominess at the waistline
Pants or skirts to be worn with braces should be a little larger at the waist so that they are actually "suspended" from the shoulders. This achieves a very comfortable style.

The skirt on the right is too large
around the waist; on the left is
perfect size.

The front side of the skirt from the left picture displays
the correct waist size, button placement and suspension
(unfortunately the brace material is deteriorating)
 
I understand that the majority of suit pants and skirts are made ready to wear, and the majority of society does not wear braces. As such, the majority of pants and skirts come with belt loops, and so people keep the belt loops on when wearing braces (even with buttons). However, if you are to be historically and functionally correct, the belt loops should be removed. Think of it like wearing a cuff-link shirt with no cuff-links – you know something’s missing. 

Here's a example of how not to wear braces. Not only does he have belt loops, he also has poor button placement - the buttons are not aligned with the pleats and are too close to the center.

Wearing belts and braces at the same time - biggest newbie blunder
Pants and skirts to be worn with braces should not be worn with a belt. You don’t need both a belt and braces to perform the same function of holding up your pants or skirt. There is redundancy here, in addition to looking bad. Therefore, the wearer must decide how to wear the pants – with braces or with a belt.


Types of buttons
While we are discussing button placement, we should also discuss buttons for braces. Brace buttons should:
  • have 4 holes (rather than 2) to anchor the button to the pants. This provides proper support.
  • be cone-shaped on the side facing the brace strap. If a straight button is used, the button threads will start to dig into the leather brace strap when tension is applied and cut it from the button hole on the brace strap. Eventually, or with enough force, the button hole will break open and the braces will lose tension. The button may still be attached, but the brace strap is unusable as the button hole is ripped open. To avoid this situation, cone-shaped buttons should be used. 
  • match the inside lining of the pants if they are on the inside. If the buttons are on the outside, feel free to sew on decorative buttons or ones that match the pattern.
To conclude, if there is one area that separates newbie brace wearers from seasoned veterans, it is in button placement. An expert brace wearer can tell the moment they see someone wearing braces if they are worn correct or not. So take note of these important details for the next time you sew on buttons or wear braces.

Discussion time:
  • Where do you find button placement to be most comfortable?
  • Have you noticed vintage photographs and wondered why the gentleman's pants are staying up and why they have such crisp, clean pant lines?
  • Do you prefer buttons on the inside or outside?
  • Do you find your buttons are popping off?
  • Have any humorous stories of buttons popping off?

Note: all photos are used solely for non-commercial use and to illustrate braces in fashion. No plagiarism is intended.

55 comments:

  1. This is thoroughly useful information.

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  2. Glad to be of service! Please spread the news to people that wear braces.

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  3. I find that my pants are most comfortable with the buttons placed on the inside of the waist band.As to the placement of the buttons I prefer them to be towards the middle as opposed to the extreme side or too close to the front.The idea of the buttons being placed away from the main seam is that when you have your suit coat open then nobody can tell that you are wearing braces. I find this to be foolish, when you come think about this then the fact is when people see that you are not wearing a belt then you must be wearing braces.

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  4. My husband recently inherited a bunch of pants and I need braces buttons. Where do I find them?

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  5. Hi Roxie,

    Glad to hear your husband will be wearing braces with his pants! The buttons will depend on the type of pants. You can use metal rivets for jeans, and there's a variety of casual or fancy buttons for dress pants. You can order rivets online at hanksclothing.com or buttons at wardrobesupplies.com or sewtrue.com. Any local sewing store should also have them available. Just remember to get buttons with 4 holes, cone-shaped, and similar color to the pant lining.

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  6. I made the mistake of trying to use metal rivets for my hiking pants suspenders. Bad idea! My backpack's hip belt grabs the edges of the rivets and digs them into my skin. No fun at all.

    My question now is: what kind/weight/spec. thread should I use to sew suspender buttons where the old rivets used to go?

    Thanks In Advance!

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  7. Yes, metal rivets wreak havoc on pants and are generally not recommended. Try to get a high thread count (150+). Aside from that, it comes down to how the button is sewn into the pants and the amount of stress put on it that will keep it attached.

    Remember, just because a button pops off doesn't mean it's not serving its purpose - it saved the pant lining from being ripped from the undue stress.

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  8. This tells me more about button placement than I care to know; but thanks for excellent information.

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  9. Having worn suspender buttons for more than 30 years to hold up my pants, I find it increasingly difficult to find sources that can teach me how to attach them on the inside of my pants without the thread going all the way through the pants. How is this done? I learn better through pictures, so describing it helps but a picture or two would be great.

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    1. @Traveling to France: Having worn braces for over 30 years, you've probably seen your fair share of suspender buttons. You are right that the thread should not be visible on the waistband material. However, if the thread is not sewn through the lining in the waistline, you will get the button pulling away from the pants causing the "roll-over" effect. The seamstress will need to find the right depth of sewing the threads as close as possible to the exterior material, but not so close as to go through it.
      I hope to do a post shortly that describes how to sew buttons onto pants, so stay tuned!

      Delete
  10. Concerning "BRACES" (or SUSPENDERS),as the americans call them,I remember visiting the Eifel Tower in Paris Last year,and on each pillar (4 alltogether),you've got shops selling souvenirs,and amongst them there were lovely large and thick black leather clip on pant suspenders with buckles and huge metalic clips,in front they are strait,and behind they have the shape of the eifel tower with even more huge metalic clips,and since I've being wearing them with my black jeans everybody dig's them,and asked me where I got them,anyway I feel great in them,and more thet go for women just as for men,such a great feeling when you've got them on!

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  11. Hello, I was wondering if there was a name for those kinds of buttons, and what size should I look for? Thank you! Love your blog.

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    1. @Zack: There's no specific name for these kinds of buttons other than "suspender buttons". Tailors, even at high-end stores, don't seem to know the details of suspender buttons - their cone-shaped back to allow the brace tab to pull the button rather than cause the thread to cut into the tab, or that 4 holes in the button is better than 2. Many tailors suggest that any button is suitable, and while it is true, it won't serve you well when the pressure is on to keep your pants up!

      Suspender buttons should be between 1/2" and 5/8" in size to fit in the brace tab. They should be stylish but functional.

      Thanks for the encouragement on the blog - share it with others!

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    2. Thank you! I happened to find some at JoAnn's by LaMode thanks to a member from Ask Andy. They are simply called (yes, you guessed it) suspender buttons! $1.75 for six or you can buy bulk on amazon for around $10 (144 buttons). I never sewed before and it's SUPER easy to add these buttons I must say. Looks muuuch cooler than clip ons!

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    3. @Zack: Glad your hunt was a success! 144 buttons is a lot of pants (24 to be precise). Buttons look so much better and classy than clip-ons. I recommend them for all your pants. Enjoy wearing braces!

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  12. Hi

    Is it a terrible thing to have belt loops and braces? I mean I cant find any trousers without belt loops

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    1. @Anonymous: Wearing braces with belt loops is not the end of the world, and currently is very difficult to find. I sometimes wear trousers with braces that have empty belt loops. The key is to remember to not wear a belt with braces.

      The empty-belt-loop look may seem like a small detail, but its in the details that braces-wearers are known for. They enjoy the satisfaction of having their trousers held in place throughout the day, with the strategic button placement that clip-on suspenders does not provide.

      Finding trousers without belt loops is likely a losing cause, but you can ask for it on suit pants.

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    2. A seamstress/taylor that can sew on brace buttons can usually remove the loops - if you so desire. It's a matter of pulling the stitch and then resewing it. It does take some time, and there are a large number of them, so you decide how "attentive to detail" vs thrifty you want to be.

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  13. And did I mention how friggin awesome this blog is? Much appreciated for a wealth of into regarding this! Im 26 years old and intend on bringing the old school braces back in trend ;-)

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  14. Appreciate the support! Enjoy wearing braces - I'm holding out for the trend to stay.

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  15. "Alan Fusser correctly notes that there should be four buttons in the front: one over each of the main pleats, the other two just forward of the side seam. Depending on the brace connection, I find that 3.5-4 inches from pleat to side seam is comfortable and provides superior support."

    For those of us of a larger build for whom front pleats are a no-no, what would be your suggestion for button placement. I've seen references to the fold line then 2-3" further outward for the second and this is they way I currently have them but they just don't quite feel right. With 6" between the fold line and the side seam should I go for something around a 4" spread?

    Thanks from a recent braces convert.

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    1. @David: Yes, you are correct that those of a larger build need a larger spread between the brace buttons on the front and on the rear. As outlined above,the first step (and most critical for the lie of the trousers) is to align the brace button nearest the center seam to be directly in line with the main seam. Some trousers (namely Flat front trousers) do not have seams but there will still be a line that provides a line down the trouser leg. This is where the first brace button should be located. The next button should be as far along the waistline as comfortable - smaller framed people find that 3-4" is sufficient, larger framed people should use 4-5" from the first brace button.
      The placement of the second button along the waist seam is also a function of the brace tabs. Some braces have larger loops to accommodate larger frames. I would recommend purchasing these braces.

      At the rear, the button placement will be equal distance from the center seam. Depending on the type of braces (X-back or Y-back), the buttons may need to be closer or farther apart. X-back braces allow the buttons to be positioned farther apart than Y-back braces, and thus are preferable for larger framed people. X-back braces provide a broader span across the rear waistline to support the trousers, reducing the trousers from sloping down on the sides and periodic wedgie.

      Trust this helps as you determine where to put brace buttons in your trousers. Thanks for asking!

      Glad to hear you are a recent braces convert! Wear them with pride.

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  16. I'm having trouble with the material to which the button is attached tearing away. The button is intact it is the fabric that has failed. I attach the buttons to the top of the waistband. The pants are cotton or hemp denim. The waistband construction is simple folded material. I sew the buttons through both layers using the topstitching holes to hide the button thread. I use a needle threader and have four strands of cotton three times.

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    1. @Ilona: Thanks for your question - I'm here to help!

      If the brace buttons are causing the fabric to pull away from the waistband, I have 2 suggestions:
      1. consider sewing the brace buttons on the outside of the pants, rather than the inside. Then you can attach a second button directly opposite the outside button but on the inside. This allows the outside button to be enforced by the inside button and have less pull on the fabric.
      2. consider sewing more strands of thread to attach the button onto the waistband. Rather than 3 strands, try 6-8.
      If these don't work, ask a tailor.

      You mention that the pant material is cotton/hemp denim, so the material should be dense enough to withstand the pull of the buttons.

      Hope this helps! Keep me updated.

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  17. I really enjoyed the information about braces on your page, but the place that talks about how the button holes are in tack was distracting, for they are intact instead.

    In tack is instead used when referring to horses and the equipment that they wear.

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  18. Hi Everyone,
    I have been wearing braces on and off for over 40 years more on than off recently (aged 56 ) I have tried all kinds over the years, clip ons and button. I would say that button on is more or less more comfortable although I had a pair of clip ons purchased in 1983 ( H back ) which were supremely comfortable probably because they were stretched and worn in.
    Unfortunately I discarded these for a new pair which were nowhere near as comfy, I now have various pairs of which button on are the most comfy but as trousers generally don't come with buttons any more I have to wear clip ons sometimes. I have to ask my wife or her sis. to sew the buttons on for me and it's not always possible to get the correct buttons as you describe in you website. ( I will look for them on the web )
    The upshot is that braces are the best and most comfortable way of holding up your trousers, but one word of advice wear an extra long shirt or t shirt otherwise it will ride up and out of your trousers or jeans.
    Happy braces wearing boys and girls.

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    1. @Anonymous: Thanks for the comments from a life-long wearer of braces. I'm glad to hear that you find button-on braces far more comfortable than the clip-on suspenders. I make this argument in a previous post on Clip-ons versus buttons. Button-on braces have more anchor points to the pants than clip-on suspenders - 6 to 8 versus 3 to 4. The more anchors to the pants, the less pull on any specific one of them.

      Additionally, the design of brace loops help shift the pull of the straps. When you wear braces with inverted-U loops (compared to inverted-V loops), the brace strap glides along the loop to accommodate your body's movement. This makes for a very comfortable experience that you soon forget you are wearing braces!

      That said, it is sometimes very difficult to find a pair of very comfortable braces. People that wear braces, and find a great pair, seem to keep them for life!

      Thanks for your tip on the long shirt. There is another option in shirt stays. Have you tried them before? What brands do you find work best?

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    2. I discovered a terribly unfashionable system in America, which attaches braces to the belt! But it worked well and I recently saw it on sale in the UK at Amazing Braces on the Internet.
      Solves the problem of loosening clips and the need to add buttons. And it keeps my trousers up.

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    3. Yes, I've come across a similar design made by Perry Suspenders. I agree that it occupies the belt loops and avoids the hassles of snapped clips or popped buttons. But it doesn't look very fashionable or stylish. It looks like the wearer is trying to hold everything together, rather than holding up your pants in a decent fashion. I would steer clear of them.

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    4. My advice is to learn to sew on the buttons yourself, so that you don't have to wait for your wife. It's pretty simple to do.

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  19. Hi Back to braces

    I too can recommend the long shirt tip. Never got on with shirt stays, but an easier method is to tuck your shirt into your underpants, since as you are wearing braces, they will not show above your waistband. My Grandad gave me this tip, which comes from when underpants did not have elastic waists, and so needed the support of braces to keep them up via brace tapes. I use this method more in winter, since it does keep you warmer.

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    1. Thanks for the tips. If this worked back in the day, then it must work now!

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  20. I have 2 questions. 1 - If I leave the belt lipids on, can I still put the buttons on the outside? And 2 - If I have them on the outside, can the buttons be lighter than the pants? My pants are black and the buttons that came with my suspenders are beige.

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    1. Belt loops, not lipids. Sorry for that typo.

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    2. Good questions - thanks for asking.

      While this may seem like a minor point, it's not. It is important to understand why belt loops and suspender buttons conflict. Pants are designed differently for those worn with a belt than those worn with braces. Pants worn with a belt sit on the hips and are rest lower on the body (what's called a "low rise" - the distance from the crotch to the top of the pants). Pants to be worn with braces sit at the waist (at or above the navel). These pants have a higher rise. In addition, pants worn with braces are looser at the waist to allow the braces to suspend the pants. Whereas pants worn with a belt are clinched at the waist and generally tight-fitting.

      Because of these differences in the design of pants, its almost impossible to switch from wearing a belt to braces (or vice versa) without looking silly. Low rise pants with braces looks terrible. I applaud you for wanting to sew suspender buttons onto your pants, but the first question is to ensure you have the right style of pants for braces. Once you confirm you have the design, the pants may have belt loops as most retailers today think people wear belts, not braces. This was not always the case.

      To answer your questions, once you have the correct design of pants for braces you can sew buttons either on the outside or inside. If the buttons go on the outside, the belt loops may interfere with the placement of the buttons, and generally looks conflicting. It is frowned upon but not forbidden. I would recommend sewing them on the inside of the pants. If one goes through the effort to sew on suspender buttons, why not spend the extra time or money to remove the belt loops? It will improve the overall look of the outfit.

      As for the color of buttons, it is recommended, but not essential, to have a color similar to the pants color. This allows the buttons on the outside to blend in to the pants. However, if you are wishing to highlight the buttons, go with the different color.

      Ultimately the placement and color, and numerous other considerations to wearing braces, comes down to your personal style and taste. Be content and show your personality!

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  21. Hi there. I'm a leather worker and just got my first pair of trousers made for braces - Y back with buttons in the right places. I managed to find a pair of Y back button braces at a charity shop but they are mostly elastic. Do you have any tips or patterns on how to make a good leather pair?

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    1. Hi Raven: Good question. I'm not aware of any patterns for making all leather braces. I did come across some photos that may be of help: the back junction and o-rink back junction. Hope this helps.

      In the meantime, enjoy wearing your trousers with the elastic braces!

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  22. Hi! I'm 35 and have developed a love of braces which I wear for Ballroom Dancing. With regard to front button placement, I find that if the buttons are too far to the side, the braces come over the shoulders but then spread out either side of the chest, as they do around a ladies' breasts. Whilst that's a necessity for the ladies, when men have that look it's comparable to an Egg wearing braces. It looks silly, as though his chest is "bursting" through the braces.

    Should braces for men come over the shoulders and then straight down the front to the buttons? Nice, straight lines.

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    1. Hi Peter: Glad to hear you are loving braces, and showing them off when you go ballroom dancing. That's a great place to show your style. And don't be shy of your age - everyone should be wearing braces, from young toddlers to the elderly.

      For your question on button placement, the straps depend on your body type. There is a fine balance, as I tried to highlight in this post. Under the "Button placement and clip placement on the front" header, there are 2 pictures of both extremes: too close to the middle and too far to the sides. Both are incorrect and appear uncomfortable. Here's some pointers to remember:
      - First and most important, the front buttons should be attached at the main pleat/crease of the pants (if there flat-front pants with no pleat the button should be positioned where the main pleat ordinarily is). This is not an arbitrarily point, but critical for making a clean line of the trousers and supporting them.
      - The brace loops should support as much of the front of the pants as possible, both the main pleat (its primarily purpose) and the side of the pants. If you have large loops (like pictured above), you can afford to have them spaced further apart. Generally I've found a good distance to be 3-4 inches apart from the main pleat.
      - if your braces tend to slip off your shoulder, consider raising the back junction in the rear. The higher the junction the less the straps will slip off. I realize that when you ballroom dancing you are likely moving, twisting and turning, which may be partially to blame for the straps slipping off. But try raising the back junction to see if that helps.
      If you have a non-adjustable back junction, ask your tailor to sew in rear-tabs for your braces. This effectively raises the back junction so the straps don't slip off. Here's a picture of rear-tabs on this post.

      I'm interested to hear your comments and insights about wearing braces and dancing. I'm writing a post on this and would like to hear what you've discovered!

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    2. "... as they do around a ladies' (sic) breasts. .. "

      Just saying that I suspect that many, if not most, clothing pedants are also grammar pedants ;-) [sorry]

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  23. Braces are the healthiest way to keep your trousers up. Wearing a belt to keep up trousers means you could be restricting the blood suppy through your abdomen (abdominal Aorta) which can have very serious consequences. The first brace button from the front of the trousers should be one sixth of half the seat measure-sounds complicated, but it simple and accurate. The next button should be 8cm from the first. The same arrangement at the other side of the trouser. At the back of the trousers, the buttons are placed 4cm either side of the seat seam.

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    1. @Anonymous: thank you for your comments. I agree that braces are healthy for the body and don't restrict the blood supply around the waist.

      I disagree with you on the placement of the brace buttons. To keep the crease and line of the pants, the inner front button should be directly over top of this crease. This button supports the crease and maintains the crisp line throughout the day. Otherwise, the front waistband of the pants sags. The outer button can be placed anywhere from 6-9cm away from the inner button, depending on the width of the brace tabs and the size of the waist band - larger brace tabs and larger individuals should be farther apart, whereas smaller tabs and smaller individuals should place the buttons closer together. In the rear, the placement depends on whether Y-back or X-back braces are to be worn. X-back braces allow the buttons to be placed farther apart - up to 7-9 cm on each side of the back seam. Y-back braces should place the buttons closer to the back seam - around 3-5 cm on each side. Braces are to support the pants. Aligning the buttons with the line of the pants is the best way to achieve this.

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    2. Thank you for your comments. The position of the most forward front brace button will fall over the trouser crease or over the front pleat (both occupy the same position) because when trouser patterns are constructed the front crease or pleat is positioned at one sixth of the scale (drafting scale=one sixth of half the seat measure). Were button placement for the second button and the distance between the back buttons in concerned, I work on the older style braces where the span between the brace eyelets is approx 8cm. I don't like the small gapped brace eyelets. By the way, I want some new braces and cannot find a shop/store that sells them. All I can find in that dreadful clip on things that don't last. Brace buttons are four holed 2cm diameter buttons and I can't find any of these either. I have run out of my stock of brace and other buttons since leaving the bespoke tailoring trade.

      Delete
  24. Hi there,
    I was one of the earlier posters on this site, where I was singing praises of button braces but recently got a pair of clip ons from E bay Y back design for my work trousers and they are supremely comfortable. They are 40 mm wide and I am considering using them as casual / weekend wear even though they are work wear.

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    Replies
    1. @Anonymous: thanks for checking back and providing an update!
      The pair of clip-on suspenders you described are wide, and would go better with work wear than a casual / weekend outfit, but to each his own. Enjoy wearing what is comfortable to you.

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  25. I do my own sewing. I've never taken the belt loops off; is it difficult? Can't you just take a safety razor blade and carefully cut the thread attaching the loops to the trousers?

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    Replies
    1. @Artful Codger: If you've done sewing before, it's not difficult to remove the belt loops. You could use a razor blade or a sewing picking needle. Be careful not to cut off too much or penetrate the pant material.
      Removing the belt loops gives a cleaner look. Good luck!

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  26. Let me say this great advice, I am known as "uncle grand dad" at work, due to my suspender wearing, I will, as a result cease the belt wearing, and start the quest to find pants that will honour the suspenders with buttons.

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  27. Why are you using the British term 'Braces' with the term 'Pants'?

    One or the other ...

    (a) Braces and trousers .... or .... (b) Suspenders and pants.

    Just in case ...

    Not Trousers and suspenders.

    Not pants and Braces.

    I know Canadians will use a mix of American terms and British terms, but mixing them in the same sentence? C'mon, where is the style in that when wearing braces attached to buttons correctly placed on trousers?

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    Replies
    1. @JackCarter: I agree that historically people have referred to braces/suspenders differently, depending on whether you are using British English (braces) or American English (suspenders). However, there's a further differentiation between button-on tabs and alligator clips. If you mention 'suspenders' to anyone in North America, they think of cheap quality elastic bands worn for comical appeal or with a rented tux.

      I'd encourage you to read earlier posts where I define 'braces' to mean those with button-on tabs, and 'suspenders' for alligator clips. This is part of the global, language shift in the definition of suspenders and braces. These terms are losing their geographical-language origin, and being defined as the connection type - braces with button-on tabs and suspenders with alligator clip connections.

      Therefore, braces are perfectly acceptable whether you are talking about trousers or pants.

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  28. This is such an interesting blog - thank you very much. I am just adapting my husband's trousers by adding buttons and removing belt loops (so that he can wear a waistcoat for our daughter's wedding) and have bought the braces from here -
    http://www.aidansweeney.co.uk/categories/3-braces
    I can thoroughly recommend Mr Sweeney's shop - he couldn't have been more helpful and the braces are great.

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    Replies
    1. @looksattheflowers Glad you enjoy the blog!
      Thanks for the suggestion of Mr Sweeney's shop. The braces and suspenders look like quality workmanship.

      Let me know how your husband enjoys wearing button braces after your alterations.

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  29. Us too ,especialy with our mother ,she always wanted to see me and my sister wear button on suspenders ,with the buttons sewed on the outside of our pants or jeans + both of us had our heads always cut very short to!This started when we were very young and continued until we went to university ,that is 21 years of age! We were quite lucky because we done all of our schooling always together too!Our mother liked us to wear those leather end suspenders ,because she liked to see both of us wearing them ,and also that our hair was shaved with the electric head shaver too regularly every 2 weeks+the majority at that time was at 21 years old so even if we had not agreed it was the law,bur honestly me or even my sister we did'nt mind!In the beginginning We both wore textile short pants wich included the suspenders up till we were about 8 years old ,Then from 8 years old until 16 we wore large clip on suspenders with those large metal clips!then upwards until we were 21 we wore button on leather suspenders with those leather ends ,and especialy me when it was hot in the summer I even wore my suspenders directly upon my skin wich I liked too ,and that some girls came behind me and held me by the back of my suspenders pulling me around and telling me how cute I looked !Wich I did'nt mind But sometimes my sister would intervine and say stop pulling on his pant suspenders ,otherwise they will get to loose and the buttons will come off and she even got angry,!But honestly everywhere we went we both liked allways wearing out large pant suspenders!As for our heads that were regulary cut very short with the electric shaver we both had quite a succes too !Especialy my sister ,because the other boys told her how good she looked with her haircutand her button on leather pant suspenders!So ther you are Bu if you ask me why i did like wearing suspenders ,well I felt that i was much more secure wearing them,and especialy that from 16 years ld up to 21 years ols as our pant suspenders were ccompletly in leather and rather thick I did like the fell of the leather especialy upon my skin,although,inwinter both me and my sister liked to put our large leather pant suspenders over our puulovers wich had a great succes to so what can I add more,It's true that some people don't like wearing suspenders but a lot do !

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  30. We had our mother who was in charge of the local Salvation Army Store in our region !Where people came and depositid all of their clothing thet could'nt put on anymore!Not only was there a lot but the clothing was very various too !They were stacked in prevision of the annual jumble fair,that was held on the big city market fair!But my mother having theese items made me wear quite a lot of them on me!and I had no say so for me I to put on very short trousers,with leather end braces,nylon buttoned overalls ,caps and berets too,So did my sister too she wore grey or navy blue pleathed school skirts with buttoned straps,white blouses,with ties and a beret aswell and as our mother liked to see us dressed up in that manner,that was the way it was !Our mother too took and wore girdles with suspenders,nylon buttoned overalls and a beret on her head aswell,so all three of us we dressed up the same way,and this continued until me and my sister reached about 17 and even 18 years old!and attending school then college ,my sister di'nt have too much problems if she wanted to go to the toilettes,but I did,with all that I had on me ,braces,nylon overalls;a belt ,+ a beret too I did'nt even dare going to the toilettes,or if I could'nt do otherwise ,I had to go and se my sister to undo all of my underware!.There was also a nice collection of canes to cane us with and that too me and my sister received oftenly hard strokes from our mother,,a matter of fact when this happened it could happen anyware,in the house,in the garden or even in the street ,plus our mother always when canning our buttocks me and my sister in the end you'll see that this is for your good that I'm giving you the cane ,and that was exactly the way it was with our mother in those days ,wich by the way was the norm in those decades!

    ReplyDelete

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