Specifications for brace buttons

You may not put much thought into the type of buttons you use to attach your braces to your waistband. While it is true that any button can be used, there are better types of buttons and worse types. 

Brace buttons have the important duty to secure your brace tabs to your waistband. So it’s important to know what will work best. Let me explain two key features of brace buttons:

1. Four holes on the button, not two: 4 holes provide better security to the waistband than 2. Each pair of holes be sewn to have independent thread securing the button. That way, if 1 side tears, there is another side of threads to hold the button to the waistband.

2. Cone-shaped surface: The leather of the brace tab pulls on the button throughout the day. As such, when the button is cone-shaped (concave to be specific) towards the brace tab, the tab is pulling more on the button rather than on the threads attaching the button. This has a significant impact on the life of the button. A securely sewn button will rarely come detached. However, a leather brace tab that constantly rubs against the button thread will eventually dig in, wear down and tear open. I’ve experienced that, and it's usually at the worse possible moment. I bend down, or twist, I feel my braces shift and I look down to see a torn brace tab, with a button still attached to the waistband. That’s a terrible thing to happen to a pair of braces, as it’s almost impossible to repair the leather on the brace tab. To minimize this from happening, brace buttons should be concave to apply pressure away from the thread and to the button itself.

Moving to the color of brace buttons, generally aim to match the waistband of the pants. If the waistband is white, it’s traditional to have a white button for example. However, you can be creative, especially if the buttons are on the outside of the waistband. 

This is an area that I, in particular, like to push the boundary; I love using decorative buttons on the outside of the waistband. The buttons coordinate with the fabric pattern, but do not match exactly. When the brace tab is attached to the button, the tab circles around the complimentary-colored button and makes a visually appealing sight on the waistband. I’ve received many compliments about my exterior brace buttons and braces.

Lovely accent of brown color on these standard black pants and braces

 

Beautiful pair of patterned burgundy and grey pants with burgundy braces. 
Note the buttons have 2 holes, 4 holes would be better 

 

Tia Mowry wearing tweed pants with brown braces

 

Here's a young man wearing traditional fish-tail back pants with braces. The brace buttons are on the outside of the waistband.

The exterior brace buttons accent against the brace tabs nicely on this man's fish-tail pants

A light tug of his braces is her way of showing her affection and love of his braces

I'm currently love wearing a pair of grey, high-waisted chinos with exterior grey buttons. When I pair the pants with black or brown brace tabs, the brace buttons add a pop of color! I also have a pair of navy chinos with exterior navy brace buttons. When I wear light brown brace tabs, the buttons add a special nod to the vintage nostalgia of braces.

Turning to buttons on the inside of your waistband, you can use any, or every color, of button as no one will see it but you. I’ve used mismatched buttons for work jeans and pants, and on thrifted pairs of pants that may have a button missing. The buttons are out of sight on the inside of the waistband, but are performing their duty. This is also helpful if you happen to lose a button while working – you can simply use a different button. But make sure it has four holes and is concave!

What brace buttons do you use to attach your braces?

Popped brace buttons

Let's admit it: buttons pop off. It could be the button holding your waistline closed on your pants or skirt, buttons on your shirt or dress, or, as we are focusing here, brace buttons.

Brace buttons carry significant responsibility: to keep your pants up. You rely on them to do their role all the time. In fact, you probably don't think about the importance of their role until it's not there, that is, when the button is not there.






Contrary to belief, buttons popping off is not poor design. In fact, they are to protect the brace tabs. Would you rather have your brace tab break and be irreparable, or have a button pop off and simply replace the button? I think you'd agree that its easier to replace the button than the braces. There is an important engineering principal to use cheaper, replaceable parts (buttons) to minimize damage to more valuable parts (braces). Thus, by allowing buttons to pop off under significant stress, this saves the brace tabs and ultimately the braces. I would rather have a popped button than a broken button hole on the brace loop or broken braces.

One of the primary advantages argued by those in favor of clip-on suspenders is that buttons pop off and need time to sew them back on, whereas once a clip snaps off, it can be easily reattached. While this is true, it misses the point of that buttons are much more securely attached to the pants than a clip and the style benefits of buttons.

Easy come, easy go: Clip-ons are easy to attach, and easy to snap off

Buttons become detached for one of two reasons:
1. the button is pulled beyond it's capacity, and the thread capacity, and it gives way
2. the button is not under pressure, rather the button threads simply wear out over time resulting in the button slipping off

Let's look further at these 2 reasons.

1. Buttons under pressure
Given enough pull on the braces, buttons will pop off under sufficient strain. In West of Hot Dog (1924) a comedy with Stan Laurel, Stan is on way to collect an inheritance in the small town of Hot Dog when he is robbed by a gang of highwaymen. He's asked at gunpoint to come out of the carriage, which Stan signals he'll happily do by exiting the opposite side of the carriage - in order to make his getaway. Stan turns to exit, with his braces as the only thing available to restrain him. The highwaymen grabs the rear brace straps and pulls as Stan pushes forward. The camera angle shows Stan's rear braces pop off under the strain:

Rear buttons popping off under the strain

 

Stan falls forward, but the braces restrain him. The highwayman pulls the braces and Stan exits the carriage towards the highwayman. Stan's braces no longer hold up his pants and the remainder of the scene shows in comical fashion what happens when Stan raises his hands for the gunman.

Notice that the brace tab button holes on his braces are still intact. All Stan needs is two new buttons to be sewn on to his pants and he can use his braces again. Also notice the durability of the left button - only popping off after significant pressure. So unless someone has the braces in their firm grip and pulling them with all their might, braces generally do not pop-off. 

Clip-on suspenders snap off all the time and would need to be constantly attached, which is annoying - your pants are not held up when your suspender clips keep snapping off! The fact is, clip-on suspenders would have snapped off a lot sooner than the buttons popped off in this case. Therefore, use buttons.

Testing if any buttons will pop off

Brace thread
Ensuring buttons stay attached can partially be addressed by using a strong thread. But balance is needed when determining the strength of the button threads to anchor braces – too strong and the brace strap will break from pressure resulting in the braces not being usable, too weak and the button threads will be constantly failing and buttons popping-off, resulting in the need to sew on buttons. Therefore, use a stronger thread weight and strength for sewing on brace buttons.

 

This brace button is separating from the waistline as the thread is lengthened. The button is about to pop off due to poor quality brace thread

2. Button threads wearing out
Similar to other fabrics, thread can wear out over time, especially with constant use. It's also very thin and can be ground down. As a result, there can be a slow tearing of the thread that eventually causes the button to release. Sometimes this is quick and sometimes it's a very slow process.

 

I remember observing a man in a suit with his jacket off one summer day outside an office tower. He was wearing Y-back braces. His rear brace tabs were about an inch from the top of his waistline, as the braces were hanging on by a few strands of thread (similar to the photo of the lady above). It would only be a matter of time before those threads would give way and the buttons would not be secured to the waistline.


I used to think that brace buttons always became detached from strain or when pulled. Maybe it's because that's what I saw in movies and comics. I've come to learn from wearing braces for many years that this is not always the case - sometimes it's simply that the button thread wears out.

Case on point, I was working at a professional office a while back. I was wearing a brown pair of dress pants with stripped blue, inverse U-tab braces and a dress shirt. I had taken my suit jacket off for the day (as was customary). I went throughout my day with my braces on display and didn't think anything of it. The pants were securely attached and held in place by my braces - or so I thought.

Late in the afternoon I was walking down the hallway when a considerate lady stopped me to ask if my pants felt secure. I replied, "yes, thanks to my braces," lightly tugging on my straps. She clarified that she meant the rear of my pants.

A popped button on the rear inverse-U tab braces

"Do you know that one of your attachments is disconnected at the back?" I was shocked and instinctively reached back with my hand to confirm it was true. One side of my inverse U-tab had slid all the way up and the rear strap was only anchored by one button. I hadn't felt the change in tension at any point during the day!

"Oh no, you're right. I've popped a brace button," I said, feeling self-conscious and blushing. 

 

She smiled and said, "Don't worry, that can happen with any button. Buttons are easy to sew on. I bet you can sew another one on easily."

 

"Yes, I'll have to do that," I replied.

 

She continued on by stating how much she liked that I wear braces. "Your braces are so stylish and befitting of you. You look very dapper and professional. I hope you don't stop wearing braces because one button popped off?"

 

"No, definitely not," I replied. I thanked her and forced a smile.

 

While one button was detached and provided no support, I still felt secure and confident that my pants would stay where they should be, which is something you can't say for those wearing belts.

On another occasion in the winter, I was wearing jeans, a t-shirt, sweater, and jacket outside in the snow. As I was walking along I felt my front right strap lose tension. I didn't stop as I figured the button had popped off and slipped down my pants and into my boot, as it was sewn on the inside of the waistband. Unfortunately, when I got inside to inspect, the inner button had popped off. But I couldn't find it when I shook my pants and looked in my boot. It must have pulled above the waistline and when it popped off, it fell outside the pants rather than inside. As the button was white and had fallen in white snow, I couldn't find it. I sewed another button on to replace the lost one and I was good to go.

 

In the summer time, when the snow had melted, I was walking along the same path with a friend. She pointed and said, there's a button. Is that one of your suspender buttons?

 

I looked down and picked up the white button.

 

Yes, I said, I think so, slipping it into my pocket. That button popped off my pants in the wintertime and I couldn't find it in the snow.

 

I like your button suspenders, she said. 

 

I agreed.

In conclusion, don't be too concerned about buttons popping off - it's a right of passage for us wearing braces.

Return of the Light Blue Pants

When I was a boy my parents bought me a pair of light blue dress pants. This was unlike any pair of pants I'd worn before, as the pants came with suspenders in the same color. The pants were high-rise, which was the trend at the time, and these pants came up just above my belly button. The pants had no waistband, rather the fabric came up all the way and just stopped. I’ve since learned this style is called ‘Hollywood Waist’. As a thin boy, the pants required the use of suspenders to hold them up, which is likely why they were included. The suspenders were Y-back and clipped-on to the hollywood waist. It made sense why there was no waistband - the pants were intended to be worn only with suspenders.

I remember wearing this outfit often - to holiday dinners, church, and weddings, especially in the summer time. I’d wear a checkered shirt or for more formal occasions, a white dress shirt. There was no suit jacket – just the pants and suspenders. I felt stylish in my pants and suspenders.

I remember other boys wore pants and suspenders as well. It was quite common back then.

Jump ahead 20 years, while hunting through a thrift store I came across a strikingly similar pair of light blue dress pants. This time in an adult size and without suspenders. When I saw them, my childhood memories of wearing the blue pants immediately came rushing to mind.

I was so surprised! I must have been staring at the pants too long, as the lady working in that department came by to ask how I was doing. I told her I used to wear a pair of pants similar to this when I was young and it was bringing back memories. She smiled and suggested I purchase them to relive my childhood. 

I agreed and shared my memories of wearing high-rise pants as a child with suspenders. She replied that she loved the look and that I should do the same with this pair. But, I said, this time I would wear the pants with button-on braces, instead of clip-on suspenders.

A few days later I removed the belt loops and sewed suspender buttons on the waistline. I sewed the buttons on the outside of the waistband to fit the vintage style of the pants. Buttons on the outside is very traditional, and I wanted to show the details of the suspender buttons against the brace tabs. Here’s a close-up of the brace tabs and exterior suspender buttons.

Here's another close-up with a different shirt:

Exterior suspender buttons against the brown brace tabs

The diamond pattern in the shirt complement the diamond braces.

Rear shot of braces

I love the look and feel of the pants; they are vintage and make a statement! It's the closest thing I can get to reliving my childhood!

Later this year I found another pair of light blue, high-waisted denim pants at a thrift store. They had a vintage design at the waist - no belt loops. Rather the pant fabric came up to top of the pants. These were again the Hollywood waist. They again reminded me of my childhood and wearing suspenders. These pants required suspenders to hold them up, but did not come with buttons, so I sewed them on, this time on the inside of the waistband.

High-waisted, light blue denim pants with braces

Rear shot of high-waisted pants

I bought these stripped Y-back braces long before I had light blue pants. They pair so well and I like the colors - the blue on the braces with the blue in the pants, and the red on the braces with the red in the dress shirt, the white on the braces and the white on the dress shirt. 

 

A few years later, after enough people had wanted to see the buttons attach at the waist, I decided that these pants would be better with the buttons on the outside of the pants. So I clipped them off and resewed the buttons onto the exterior of the waistline. 

Buttons on the outside

Rear shot of buttons on the outside

I like that people can see my buttons and braces. It's a vintage look that I enjoy and know others do as well.

These pants are larger at the waist, as you can see with the slight fish-tail back feature. Just like the pair of pants I had when I was young, these pants need braces to hold them up.

Evidence that my braces are suspending my loose waistline

Now when I wear either of these blue pants I'm reminded of my childhood, and where my love of high-waisted pants and suspenders all started.


Discussion time:

• Did you wear suspenders growing up?
• Do you continue to wear suspenders, or stopped after childhood?

Placement of Brace Buttons

Now that we've addressed that braces should be worn with buttons (see previous post), where exactly should the buttons be located?

The placement of buttons along the waistline is critically important to wearing braces. It determines where the brace straps lie and the "line of the pants". In fact, for those who know, you can see when a man is wearing braces even when the braces are covered by a vest or jacket. This is because of the way the pant material drapes (falls) down the legs. Another indication is where the pants meet the shoes. Not convinced? This is best illustrated in a photo. Check out this vintage photograph of this slightly portly gentleman:

Even with a vest on I can tell he is wearing braces by the way his pants lie. The material is generally flush against his torso. If you know where to look you can see two lines that straighten the pant leg. One is over the centre pleat or line of the leg, and the other is to the side. I've highlighted them below:

 

These lines cannot be the result of a belt. Rather, they are caused by a brace button that is anchored at this point along the waistline. By placing the brace button at these locations, the pants lay flush and clean. Going further, I'd expect this gentlemen's braces underneath his vest to be something like this:

I've added a horizontal line for where I think his pant waistline is, and then the brace strap attached to the waistline, giving the visible signs of the pant lines. This gives a perfect drape as the pants fall straight from the waistline to the shoes and look very classy.

Unfortunately the hedge is blocking our view of his shoes. If we could see his shoes we would likely see a slight "break" in the pant materials that is maintained when the man moves. The pant hem touches the brim of the shoes without having excess materials at the bottom of the leg. This can only be achieved if the pants maintain their same position, relative to the body. And that can only be achieved with braces. If both of these are present, you can be sure the man is wearing braces. These are the sure signs that a man is wearing braces. To the trained eye, you can confidently say this man is wearing braces.

I've had people stare at my pants with their clean drape, with the pants falling gently over the shoes with no excess materials. When they don't see a belt, they ask me how my pants stay up. I'm ever so happy to reveal my secret: I pull back my suit jacket to reveal my braces and the clean lines that are create by braces and the proper button placements.

Therefore, when wearing braces, it is critical to know where to place the buttons to achieve the proper drape. Buttons that are too close to the mid-section are uncomfortable and get in the way. If the buttons are too far apart they do not adequately support the drape or pant lines. This is true for both the front and back of the pants.

Where to place brace buttons
Alan Flusser points out that there should be four buttons at the front: one button over 
each of the main pleats of the pants (inner buttons), and the other two just forward of the side seam (outer buttons). Always start with the main pleat for the inner button, as this is where you will achieve the proper drape and a clean line on the pants. It doesn't matter if it's pleated pants or flat front, there will always be a line that should be straight. The button over the main line/pleat will anchor the pants and create the perfect drape. All tuxedos are made this way to have a crisp, straight line.

Moving to the outer buttons at the front, the placement depends on the width of the brace tabs and the size of the wearer. Some inverse-V tabs are narrower, while some inverse-U tabs are wider (more on this below). I've found that when I place the buttons 3 to 4 inches from the button at the pleat to the next button, this accommodates most brace tabs and is comfortable and provides superior support. As for waist size, for portly individuals, I'd recommend a wider placement of 4 or 4.5 inches apart to provide more surface area on the waistline.

Notice the button placement at the waistline: inner button above
the main seam and outer button about 3-4 inches apart.
This achieves a nice drape of the pants

Over the years I've worn braces with button placement at various positions along the waistband. I've learned that when there's a centre pleat, the inner buttons should be directly overtop to ensure this line stays taut. However, if the pants are more casual, such as with corduroy or jeans, the buttons can be shifted to the side by half to one inch. I have a pair of corduroy pants with buttons placed directly over the side seam and then 4.25 inches forward for the inner buttons. This means that the inner buttons are not directly over the centre of my pant leg, but that's fine, the pants are sufficiently supported. I find the brace straps shift slightly to the side of my chest and sit comfortably.

 

In  the back, there should be two buttons regardless of if you are wearing Y-back and X-back style braces. The buttons should be equidistant from the center of the fork of the braces, so it falls naturally. Here it depends on the style of braces you plan to wear – Y-back braces require buttons closer together (about 1.5 inch on each side of the middle seam). While buttons for X-back braces should be spaced a little farther apart. I’ve found that 2-3 inches on each side of middle seam is comfortable. If you happen to have 4 buttons with X-back braces (such as those illustrated below), then they should be farther apart.

Width between buttons
One common beginner mistake I see often is front buttons that are placed to close together (ie, less than 3 inches together). The placement of the buttons in the front of the pants is important to supporting the line of the pants. Let's review these two photos:

The one on the left has the buttons too close together, in addition to being too close to the centre of the pants. The one on the right has the buttons placed too far to the side, which supports the side seam but the main pleat and line will not be crisp. Aim for balance and support of the pants by positioning the buttons in between these 2 positions. This highlights the important of placing the front buttons on the main seam followed by the side seam. The placement of these buttons on the pants below could be improved by aligning them up with the front pleat.

Buttons should be aligned with the front seam,
generally with the pleat, marked by the red dots

If you are wearing military or regal apparel with a solid strip down the side of the pants, you may choose to support the side seam at the expense of the front seam. You may also be able to support both the main and side seam with certain the braces, depending on the size of the waistband and size of the brace tabs, such as in this photo:

When wearing braces with inverse-V tabs, if the button placement is improper, one tab may curve out from the waist. This looks strange and gets caught on things. I've circled an example in this photo below:

It is for this reason that, historically, inverse-V tab braces were made with one tab longer than the other, by about half an inch. The tabs that connect to buttons closer to the centre were longer than the tabs that were to the side seam to address this issue. This is one way to identify if inverse-V braces are vintage and more historically accurate.

 

Note, this problem does not arise with inverse-U tabs as the brace strap glides along the U-tab as it's not fixed in position.

 

Having worn braces for decades now, my preference is to have the front buttons placed as far apart as practical. I always start with the inner buttons above the main seam and then the outer buttons along the side seam. This works out to the buttons being about 4 to 4.5 inches apart for how I like it. This provides superior coverage over the front of the waistline.

I have a pair of grey high-rise pants with buttons above the main seam and above the side seam. When I wear inverse-U brace tabs, the straps slide comfortably along with my body's movement. With inverse-V brace tabs, the straps keep my waistline in line and tight.

 
What if you are wearing clip-on suspenders - where do you place the clip? This is precisely the problem with clip-on suspenders - they do not adequately support the pants! You must compromise and place the clips either on the main seam or the the middle between the main seam and side seam. Try a number of locations and see what feels most comfortable for you.



Clip placement on the back
Just as the placement of the buttons on the front is important, it is even more important on the back. This is generally the place where newbie suspender-wearers get confused, as they will likely be wearing X-back style, and attach the clips either too close together or too far apart on the waistline:

1. If the buttons are too close together, you can get a wedgie.

2. If the buttons are too far along the pant waist, the pants will not be supported properly and will be uncomfortable when rotating.

Also, if the clips are too far apart, you may cause the waistline to bulge outward, ruining the flat line.

Therefore, it is critical that you determine the right balance for the rear buttons along the waistline. They should be equidistant from the center of the rear seam, but not too far that they create a bulge out. This exact distance depends on the size of the individual, the position of the back junction, and length of the back straps, so this will vary by suspenders and braces. Here is an example of appropriate distance of the straps at the rear:

Belt Loops
Pants or skirts to be worn with braces should not accommodate a belt and so should have no belt loops. More to the point, to be historically authentic, belt loops should be removed, if you will be wearing braces.  

 

Roominess at the waistline
Pants or skirts to be worn with braces should be a little larger at the waist so that they are actually "suspended" from the shoulders. This achieves a very comfortable style.

The skirt on the right is too large
around the waist; on the left is
perfect size.

The front side of the skirt from the left picture displays
the correct waist size, button placement and suspension
(unfortunately the brace material is deteriorating)

 

I understand that the majority of suit pants and skirts are made ready to wear, and the majority of society does not wear braces. As such, the majority of pants and skirts come with belt loops, and so people keep the belt loops on when wearing braces (even with buttons). However, if you are to be historically and functionally correct, the belt loops should be removed. Think of it like wearing a cuff-link shirt with no cuff-links – you know something’s missing. 

Here's a example of how not to wear braces. Not only does he have belt loops, he also has poor button placement - the buttons are not aligned with the pleats and are too close to the center.

Wearing belts and braces at the same time - biggest newbie blunder
Pants and skirts to be worn with braces should not be worn with a belt. You don’t need both a belt and braces to perform the same function of holding up your pants or skirt. There is redundancy here, in addition to looking bad. Therefore, the wearer must decide how to wear the pants – with braces or with a belt.

 

To conclude, if there is one area that separates newbie brace wearers from seasoned veterans, it is in button placement. An expert brace wearer can tell the moment they see someone wearing braces if they are worn correct or not. So take note of these important details for the next time you sew on buttons or wear braces.

Discussion time:

• Where do you find button placement to be most comfortable?
• Have you noticed vintage photographs and wondered why the gentleman's pants are staying up and why they have such crisp, clean pant lines?
• Do you prefer buttons on the inside or outside?
• Do you find your buttons are popping off?
• Have any humorous stories of buttons popping off?

Note: all photos are used solely for non-commercial use and to illustrate braces in fashion. No plagiarism is intended.