Reflections on Wearing Braces: National Suspenders Day 2020

Today is National Suspenders Day. I’d like to share some current reflections on braces. I’ve been intentionally wearing braces for over 20 years now, starting in my early 20s. I’ve written before about how I got started, and why I wear them. Essentially, I wear braces for their both their comfort and functionality – they allow my pants to be loose-fitting and as such, are held in place with braces.

I wear braces almost every day, even while working from home. I’ve found it helps my mind get into work mode when I dress as I would for the office. I’m sitting at a desk for most of the day, and the loose waistline allows me to breathe in and out without having a restricted belt around my midsection. It is so comfortable. And when I stand up, my waistline stays at its proper place.

As I reflect on this, braces are the perfect complement to the clothes I wear for work. They allow me to display my personality through different colors and styles, add a vintage aspect, and are a distinctive yet understated accessory. I've branched out from only black and navy suits and pants to browns and greys as well. This also allows me to coordinate different colors of braces. When people notice my braces they comment that the look is so dapper and classic. I take it as a genuine compliment on my style. I enjoy these conversations!

I've discovered that people appreciate in particular when I wear the color brown. Most men these days only wear navy or black suits, not brown. As a result, when I wear brown, I stand out. Brown is not worn that much anymore, so when people see me wearing brown, they appreciate it. I recently bought a pair of brown braces that matches my brown pants. The braces are Y-back inverse-V braces very similar to the gentlemen below:

Ad for Pioneer braces - transport me into these beautiful high-rise pants and braces!

I was looking recently at vintage photographs, in particular men wearing braces in the photographs. I noticed that their front brace tabs were quite spread out. I did some more perusing of old photographs and noticed that the placement was usually quite wide: one button directly above the main pleat (which is what I’ve always advocated), and the other button directly above the side seam of the pants. Here's some examples:

Exterior outer buttons are at the side seam

 

Exterior outer buttons are at the side seam

The man wearing the hat has his outer button above the side seam

When I inspected my button placement I noticed that the distance between the main pleat and side seam was another inch or so past my usual spacing of 3.5 inches. I was curious and wanted to try out this more vintage button placement. I sewed buttons directly above the side pant seam and attached my braces. 

On the particular pair of braces I chose, the brace tabs fanned out very nicely (see photo below). The waistline did not bulge but rather floated gently with the support of the spread-out brace tabs. I felt the outer brace tabs tug gently throughout the day, which kept my side seam straight. This was more noticeable when I sat down and felt a slight tug at the side seams.

The side seam on the left and
main pleat on the right

I have an ordinary build - my waistline is not overly large, so spanning the main seam and side seam with the brace tabs works well. But I realize brace tabs come in different sizes and have different spacing, so it may not work on narrower tabs.

I decided to wear this pair of pants to a family dinner recently. I matched the high-rise pants with the stripped Y-back braces, a blue dress shirt, and a knitted burgundy cardigan for warmth. Travelling there I was comfortable, but once I got inside the home it started to warm up; especially in the kitchen with the oven heat. I took off my cardigan and displayed my stripped braces and high-rise pants. People noticed, but things carried on, as everyone knows that I wear my pants with braces.

View from the front

I had to get up from the table a few times, and every time I stood up my braces were there to hold my pants in place. As I rose and bent forward I noticed that the outer brace buttons tugged my side seam more than the the previous button position. It was reassuring to me as it reminded me that my brace tabs were keeping the side seam straight and taut.

View of the rear

I enjoyed the dinner and the rest of the evening without thinking about my pants. It wasn’t until it was time to leave that I put the cardigan back on. Reflecting back, this must have been how men wore suit jackets and cardigans in the 1920s to 40’s. They would take off their outer layer when they got inside, and then put it back on when it was time to go out. Men had their braces shown and it was commonplace to see braces around the home or office. In fact, it added to the man's whole outfit with stylish colors and designs.

As I take a look at what people are wearing these days, I notice that vintage styles are returning. I’m glad to be contributing my part by wearing braces! I plan on wearing braces for the rest of my life.

Being Recognized from my Personal Style

I was walking down the sidewalk recently, waiting for time to pass as my take-out order was in process. I had just left work and was still wearing a pair of high-waisted, teal pants with inverse-V maroon braces and a short-sleeve dress shirt. Someone called out, “Hey there!” I looked up with curiosity.

“We saw you from up the block and agreed that you dressed like someone we know. As you got closer we realized it was, in fact, you! Your style is so distinct with your high-waisted pants and suspenders,” said my friend. I thanked them and we carried on the conversation.

My personal style

My friend's comment got me thinking about my personal style. I’ve been developing my style to include more higher-waist pants - always with braces.The waistline should be roomy enough that when I sit down, my stomach is not constricted. This means the waistline would slip down, if it not for the braces. When I'm standing, the larger waistline allows air circulation and keep me cool in the summer months.

For those of us that wear braces, people connect braces with our personal style, which I think is great. Braces are an excellent way to show your personal style as there's so many colors, designs, and styles.

My style has developed into what could be called Vintage Professor Style. Think of classic Ivy League style back in the 1930s such as:

• a suit jacket with a different colored pair of pants – either a light-colored jacket with dark pants or grey pants with a dark jacket
• If a jacket is not worn, then knitted vest and cardigans are commonly worn in the colder months
  
• the colors are usually browns, greens, and greys
• tweed is prevalent but also corduroy
• designs are houndstooth and stripes - being simple and classic
• the fit is slightly over sized and roomy, suit jackets are boxy and broad
  
• pants sit at the natural waist (high-rise) and supported by braces
• ties or bow-ties are sometimes worn
  
• a leather folio or gusseted briefcase accompanies the look
• suede shoes, heavy brogues, or dressy boots are common

Above all else, though, the look needs to appear as if it was thrown together at the last minute, without much thought. It’s a classic style that people adore, as many movies have characters worn in this style: think Harrison Ford in Indiana Jones, Cary Grant, or Jimmy Stewart to name a few.

I think this style is classic and professional, yet able to transition from work to casual by removing the suit jacket and wearing a cardigan. Or simply wearing the dress shirt with pants and braces.

 

I like the cover of The Country Gentleman from August 18, 1923. It shows a young lady attempting to convince the older gentleman to try a belt instead of braces. He refuses the belt and reattaches his right brace tab. I agree with him, a belt would not be comfortable or suitable for his high-rise pants. In fact, it appears his waistline doesn't even have belt loops to accommodate a belt. Like the gentleman, I'll stick with my trusty braces.

Some people say that my style is "old man" or "old school", as I wear high-waist pants with braces, a dress shirt, and a cardigan - like what the old man above would have worn! I'll accept this description, as it references back to a time when men had high style standards. And this style is so comfortable. I'll bet if any of the critics tried the style for a few days they'd fall in love with it as well.

People do appreciate your personal style. If that includes braces, that's great!

How would you describe your personal style?