Showing posts with label clips. Show all posts
Showing posts with label clips. Show all posts

Monday, September 30, 2013

Problems wearing Braces or Suspenders - and how to correct them

I attended a wedding recently where the groomsmen were wearing suspenders under their vests. This is very stylish, as the suspenders allow for the vest to lie flat, and do not create a bulge where a belt would be, as the vest moves smoothly over the pants. The problem was that when the dancing started, the straps started slipping off the shoulders, out of the arm pockets of the vest, similar to the photo on the right. Not only did the groomsmen have to constantly put their straps back on their shoulders, the suspenders were not holding up their pants.

This is one of the problems with wearing suspenders or braces incorrectly. I say incorrectly, as people are snapping on suspenders more often these days, but are not aware of the correct style. In this post I describe several problems to wearing suspenders or braces incorrectly, and how to fix them:
  • Improper button/clip placement: Brace buttons that are positioned too close to the center seam are uncomfortable and tend to distract from the rest of the outfit. They also do not allow the side seam to be properly supported. The opposite is also true – brace buttons that are positioned to far to the sides do not support the pants and are uncomfortable. For suspenders, people position the clips too close to the center seam, or too far to the side.
  • How to correct it: For braces, the first front button should be half-way between your belly button and the side of your body (hip bone). Use the inseam on the pant leg as a general rule. The second button should be placed about 3-4” along the waistband. This should be near the side seam of the pants. The exact placement depends on your waist size and personal preference, but I’ve found this to be the most comfortable. While we are on button placement, the rear buttons should be placed 2” on either side of the rear center seam for Y-back braces, and 2.5-3” for X-back braces. If you are taller, you should space the braces farther apart. Also, if you have a larger waist (36”+), you should position the braces farther apart. Aim for half way between the center seam and side seam. This will keep your pants level and secure.
    For suspenders, the front clips should be positioned half-way between your belly button and the side seam on your pants. For the rear clips, X-back suspenders should be placed about 2-2.5” from either side of the center seam; Y-back suspenders are positioned directly in the center of the pants.
Proper button placement
Buttons are too close to the center


  • Non-adjustable back-junction: Braces and suspenders are designed to have either an X-Back where the straps cross over each other in the rear, or a Y-Back, where the straps join together into a single strap as it continues down to connect with the pants. The place that the straps meet is called the back-junction. When the junction is fixed in place, it cannot be adjusted to fit your body shape. Taller people require the junction to be positioned higher on the back (but not on the neck), than shorter people. See the first photo below - this should be adjusted down, but it is unable to. When the junction is fixed, the straps are uncomfortable as the junction gets too close to the neck and shoulders, or they straps are constantly falling off the shoulders as the junction is too low.
The back junction should be raised
Non-adjustable back-junction


  • How to correct it: For braces or suspenders that have an adjustable back-junction, simply move the junction to be higher or lower. For braces or suspenders with fixed back-junctions, use some of the material from the hem of the pants to sew in rear-tabs on the back of your pants, forming "brace tabs", see image below.
  • Rear-tabs to raise back junction
    This effectively raises the back junction to reduce the chances of the straps slipping of your shoulders. Historically, men wore braces every day, but did not always have adjustable back junctions. Brace tabs were the common solution to keeping straps from slipping off the shoulders.

  • Faulty clips: Suspender clips eventually fail, and when they do, they can snap off suddenly. The more suspenders are worn, the more chance they will lose their gripping power, especially if the cloth material is thick.
  • How to correct it: Unless you love the colors or patterns of the straps, throw out the suspenders and get a better pair. You should also consider graduating to braces, as buttons popping off are less frequent and do not involve metal objects flying around your body!


The next time you wear suspenders or braces, remember to avoid these problems.

Saturday, September 4, 2010

Suspender Connections: Clip-ons versus buttons

Clip-on suspenders
Suspenders can be connected to your pants or skirt in two main ways: with clips or buttons. There’s also a few more, which I’ll briefly mention, but these are the two primary methods.

Clip-on suspenders have sharp teeth that grip the pant material. They are sometimes called alligator clips. The clip grips the waistband of the pant, which can cause the material to be damaged over time. Clip-ons provide a quick, easy method to attach suspenders to your pants or skirt. Each shoulder strap has 1 clip that snaps to the front of your pants on each side of the hips, and 1 or 2 clips (depending on if it’s a Y or X style) that clip to the back. They come in wide variety of colors, can be thin or wide, and add a fresh spice to a dull wardrobe. Because they are so easy to attach, they are generally used by novice suspender-wearers.

Wearing clip-ons with a formal suit or skirt not only looks tacky and cheap - like wearing a clip-on tie - but also damages the materials from the pull of the sharp teeth. No well-dressed individual would use clip-ons when wearing a formal outfit.

Button-on braces
Button-on braces
The better option is to use buttons to attach the suspender straps to your pants or skirt. Button tabs use leather or cloth "ends" that attach to the strap. Button-on braces are more comfortable, traditional and formal than clip-on suspenders. Where clip-ons have 1 point of contact with the pants, button-ons have 2. There are 2 buttons at each end of the suspender straps - 2 on each side in the front, and 2 buttons in the back for a total of 6 buttons - double protection! This results in 6 “connection points” to the pants, compared to a minimum of 3 connections with Y-style clip-on suspenders – double the connections! More connection points means your pants stay in place and the straps will not move as much. Your pants will still stay up even if you pop a button. With suspenders, if a clip pops off, the strap is left hanging loose and not doing its purpose.

There’s also braces that have 8 connection points – 4 in the front, and 4 in the back, which can be very comfortable.


Connection points are the key consideration. If you just want to follow the latest trend, you can use clip-on suspenders. But if you actually want comfort and to hold up your pants, you should use button-on braces. Case in point, in the photo below, the man is wearing suspenders when he should be wearing braces. The suspenders are not adequately supporting the waistband of his pants - its drooping in the center and around the rear. The gentleman should be wearing button-on braces to properly support his wider waist. This will allow 4 connection points in front, rather than the current 2.
More connection points (with braces) would better support these pants

Many opponents to braces state that buttons pop off easily. After wearing braces for many years I have simply not found this to be the case. There's a principle in engineering to have low-cost, easily replaceable part act as an intermediary before an expensive component (such as a motor). The purpose is for the low-cost part to fail (either from wear and tare or excess use) and in the process save the expensive component from failure.

This same principle applies to button braces. The button and thread are low-cost parts that are easily replaceable. The brace tabs are more expensive and costly to repair if torn. As such, with sufficient wear and tare or excess pressure, the low-cost parts (the button and thread) should "fail" (pop off) in order to preserve the brace tab. In the alternative, the button and thread hold fast to the pants and the brace tab tears, leaving the wearer in a worse condition. The brace wearer can't simply loop the tab to another button but has a dangling tab to deal with for the rest of the day. I've fortunately never been in this situation, but have seen others and it's not fun.

All this to say, there's solid engineering principles behind having your button popping off in order to save the brace tab from damage.

As you’ve probably noticed, I generally use suspenders to refer to clip-on suspenders, and braces to refer to the button-on variety.

I recommend button-on braces any and every day over clip-on suspenders. But you do get marks for wearing suspenders!

The primary disadvantage of clip-on suspenders is that they always snap off at an inconvenient time, or need constant adjusting...
This lady has not even noticed that her suspender clip has snapped off
Constant adjusting and reconnecting is common for suspenders

Suspenders easily attach to any pair of pants, like this boys


Alternative connections include:
- bachelor buttons provide a permanent connection with a metal rivet and suitable for denim. These are useful when doing heavy labour, but may not be stylish.

- single connection strap – These are simple and basic, but do not provide sufficient support for the pants. This is because there are fewer connection points which will result in sagging.

Or this single-button style that uses braces to attach to a single button:

- Clip on, button-style connectionslike these. These are the middle ground connections that try to be too much. They are handy for snapping on your pants, but are not suitable for formal wear, where buttons show the more polished image.


- Straps sewn directly into the pants or skirt. These are stylish, but don’t allow for movement and stretch during the day. As a result, they are more prone to ripping and tearing which is harder to repair than sewing on a button.

- Steel attachments: An inventor used steel to reinforce the connection between the waistline and brace tab. A strip of steel is presewn into the waistline at the locations where the brace loops are to connect to the waistline. The patented flat, steel spring is then used to attach the brace tabs to the steel strip.

In it's normal position, the spring is loaded (right diagram). It expands across the steel strip and anchors the brace tab to the waistline. When the spring is squeezed together (left diagram) the spring can be detached from the steel strip in the waistline, detaching the brace tabs in a similar way as unbuttoning braces.
 

Discussion time:
  • What type of connection do you prefer?
  • Do you buy pants/skirts and then find braces to wear with them, or buy braces and then find pants/skirt to wear with it?

Note: all photos are used solely for non-commercial use and to illustrate braces in fashion. No plagiarism is intended.