Waistlines are trending up

Pants with suspenders

Have you noticed? Waistlines on pants and skirts are rising. 

Over the past 10 or so years, waistlines lay below the belly button - at or just above the hip bone. The next generation of young kids coming up is looking to differentiate themselves from the previous generation, and one way they are doing this is by wearing pants and skirts higher on their waist. Designers are happy to oblige. 

Pinstripe pants with braces

This is a natural cycle, moving from low-rise pants to high-rise. This is occurring in different styles of clothes, including office wear, casual wear, and sportswear. Dress pants have risen and taper to the ankle. Jeans and cotton pants have high rises. Yoga pants sit higher on the waist. The placement of skirt waists are higher than 2 years ago.

Skirts with braces

All of these different styles recognize the value in smoothing over the midsection. You can be underweight or overweight and take advantage of a waistline sitting above your waist. High-rise pants lengthen the legs as there’s more vertical fabric to fool the eye.

High-rise jeans with suspenders

As someone who’s worn high-rise pants for a long time, I welcome this trend. High-rise pants and skirts are the first stage before wearing braces. As waistlines rise, people will look to keep their pants at those heights, and that's where they will be re-accustomed to the art of wearing braces. I foresee braces becoming more prevalent in society.

This lady loves that braces have come back!

Diane Kruger at the Polo Ralph Lauren Children’s Fashion Show in August 2015 took her comfy wide-leg pants to a whole new level by wearing braces. In fact, the commentator mentions that "suspenders
are the ultimate menswear-inspired accessory and may be the little extra your outfit is missing."

It’s a fantastic style and I’m glad to see it coming!

The serious face for seriously comfortable braces

Questions:
1. Have you seen people wearing high-rise pants more often these days?
2. Have you worn high-rise pants or skirt recently?

Reflections on Wearing Braces: National Suspenders Day 2020

Today is National Suspenders Day. I’d like to share some current reflections on braces. I’ve been intentionally wearing braces for over 20 years now, starting in my early 20s. I’ve written before about how I got started, and why I wear them. Essentially, I wear braces for their both their comfort and functionality – they allow my pants to be loose-fitting and as such, are held in place with braces.

I wear braces almost every day, even while working from home. I’ve found it helps my mind get into work mode when I dress as I would for the office. I’m sitting at a desk for most of the day, and the loose waistline allows me to breathe in and out without having a restricted belt around my midsection. It is so comfortable. And when I stand up, my waistline stays at its proper place.

As I reflect on this, braces are the perfect complement to the clothes I wear for work. They allow me to display my personality through different colors and styles, add a vintage aspect, and are a distinctive yet understated accessory. I've branched out from only black and navy suits and pants to browns and greys as well. This also allows me to coordinate different colors of braces. When people notice my braces they comment that the look is so dapper and classic. I take it as a genuine compliment on my style. I enjoy these conversations!

I've discovered that people appreciate in particular when I wear the color brown. Most men these days only wear navy or black suits, not brown. As a result, when I wear brown, I stand out. Brown is not worn that much anymore, so when people see me wearing brown, they appreciate it. I recently bought a pair of brown braces that matches my brown pants. The braces are Y-back inverse-V braces very similar to the gentlemen below:

Ad for Pioneer braces - transport me into these beautiful high-rise pants and braces!

I was looking recently at vintage photographs, in particular men wearing braces in the photographs. I noticed that their front brace tabs were quite spread out. I did some more perusing of old photographs and noticed that the placement was usually quite wide: one button directly above the main pleat (which is what I’ve always advocated), and the other button directly above the side seam of the pants. Here's some examples:

Exterior outer buttons are at the side seam

 

Exterior outer buttons are at the side seam

The man wearing the hat has his outer button above the side seam

When I inspected my button placement I noticed that the distance between the main pleat and side seam was another inch or so past my usual spacing of 3.5 inches. I was curious and wanted to try out this more vintage button placement. I sewed buttons directly above the side pant seam and attached my braces. 

On the particular pair of braces I chose, the brace tabs fanned out very nicely (see photo below). The waistline did not bulge but rather floated gently with the support of the spread-out brace tabs. I felt the outer brace tabs tug gently throughout the day, which kept my side seam straight. This was more noticeable when I sat down and felt a slight tug at the side seams.

The side seam on the left and
main pleat on the right

I have an ordinary build - my waistline is not overly large, so spanning the main seam and side seam with the brace tabs works well. But I realize brace tabs come in different sizes and have different spacing, so it may not work on narrower tabs.

I decided to wear this pair of pants to a family dinner recently. I matched the high-rise pants with the stripped Y-back braces, a blue dress shirt, and a knitted burgundy cardigan for warmth. Travelling there I was comfortable, but once I got inside the home it started to warm up; especially in the kitchen with the oven heat. I took off my cardigan and displayed my stripped braces and high-rise pants. People noticed, but things carried on, as everyone knows that I wear my pants with braces.

View from the front

I had to get up from the table a few times, and every time I stood up my braces were there to hold my pants in place. As I rose and bent forward I noticed that the outer brace buttons tugged my side seam more than the the previous button position. It was reassuring to me as it reminded me that my brace tabs were keeping the side seam straight and taut.

View of the rear

I enjoyed the dinner and the rest of the evening without thinking about my pants. It wasn’t until it was time to leave that I put the cardigan back on. Reflecting back, this must have been how men wore suit jackets and cardigans in the 1920s to 40’s. They would take off their outer layer when they got inside, and then put it back on when it was time to go out. Men had their braces shown and it was commonplace to see braces around the home or office. In fact, it added to the man's whole outfit with stylish colors and designs.

As I take a look at what people are wearing these days, I notice that vintage styles are returning. I’m glad to be contributing my part by wearing braces! I plan on wearing braces for the rest of my life.

Being Recognized from my Personal Style

I was walking down the sidewalk recently, waiting for time to pass as my take-out order was in process. I had just left work and was still wearing a pair of high-waisted, teal pants with inverse-V maroon braces and a short-sleeve dress shirt. Someone called out, “Hey there!” I looked up with curiosity.

“We saw you from up the block and agreed that you dressed like someone we know. As you got closer we realized it was, in fact, you! Your style is so distinct with your high-waisted pants and suspenders,” said my friend. I thanked them and we carried on the conversation.

My personal style

My friend's comment got me thinking about my personal style. I’ve been developing my style to include more higher-waist pants - always with braces.The waistline should be roomy enough that when I sit down, my stomach is not constricted. This means the waistline would slip down, if it not for the braces. When I'm standing, the larger waistline allows air circulation and keep me cool in the summer months.

For those of us that wear braces, people connect braces with our personal style, which I think is great. Braces are an excellent way to show your personal style as there's so many colors, designs, and styles.

My style has developed into what could be called Vintage Professor Style. Think of classic Ivy League style back in the 1930s such as:

• a suit jacket with a different colored pair of pants – either a light-colored jacket with dark pants or grey pants with a dark jacket
• If a jacket is not worn, then knitted vest and cardigans are commonly worn in the colder months
  
• the colors are usually browns, greens, and greys
• tweed is prevalent but also corduroy
• designs are houndstooth and stripes - being simple and classic
• the fit is slightly over sized and roomy, suit jackets are boxy and broad
  
• pants sit at the natural waist (high-rise) and supported by braces
• ties or bow-ties are sometimes worn
  
• a leather folio or gusseted briefcase accompanies the look
• suede shoes, heavy brogues, or dressy boots are common

Above all else, though, the look needs to appear as if it was thrown together at the last minute, without much thought. It’s a classic style that people adore, as many movies have characters worn in this style: think Harrison Ford in Indiana Jones, Cary Grant, or Jimmy Stewart to name a few.

I think this style is classic and professional, yet able to transition from work to casual by removing the suit jacket and wearing a cardigan. Or simply wearing the dress shirt with pants and braces.

 

I like the cover of The Country Gentleman from August 18, 1923. It shows a young lady attempting to convince the older gentleman to try a belt instead of braces. He refuses the belt and reattaches his right brace tab. I agree with him, a belt would not be comfortable or suitable for his high-rise pants. In fact, it appears his waistline doesn't even have belt loops to accommodate a belt. Like the gentleman, I'll stick with my trusty braces.

Some people say that my style is "old man" or "old school", as I wear high-waist pants with braces, a dress shirt, and a cardigan - like what the old man above would have worn! I'll accept this description, as it references back to a time when men had high style standards. And this style is so comfortable. I'll bet if any of the critics tried the style for a few days they'd fall in love with it as well.

People do appreciate your personal style. If that includes braces, that's great!

How would you describe your personal style?

The importance of the position of the rear junction

Brace straps cross over (X-style) or come together (Y-style) on the wearer's back. The place that they come together is referred to as the rear junction and it's one of the most important components of wearing braces, but not often considered. This post highlights different positioning and provides recommendations for you to enjoy brace wearing all the more.

The rear junction

The rear junction can either be fixed or movable. A fixed junction is more secure and is common on higher-end, luxury braces. A movable junction allows the wearer to shift the junction higher or lower on the torso to adapt the straps to the person's body.

Why is the rear junction placement important? Because straps slip off shoulders when the junction is too low. The higher the junction, the closer together the straps are as they run over the shoulders, and the less frequent they slip off. But you don't want the junction to be too high, that it's at your neck (see photo below). This causes the straps to curve around your neck rather than the shoulder blades.

Rear junction is too high

The optimal positioning of the rear junction is such that the straps curve along your shoulder blades as they run down your shoulders. This allows your shoulders to move freely while minimizing the possibility of the straps slipping of your shoulders.

The placement of the rear junction is a tad low

 

The placement of the rear junction is too low

Perfect positioning of the rear junction

Perfect positioning of the rear junction

The alternative is no rear junction. That is, two straps that simply run from the front of your pants to the back, never connecting at the rear to each other, such as this pair of braces:

While this may be possible, it is not recommended. The straps can easily slip off the shoulders and the shoulder blades have to contend with the strap when the shoulder moves forward.

 
I came across some video clips of Jennifer Lopez talling on the "The Elvis Duran Z100 Morning Show" and “HOT 97” on April 9, 2019 in New York City. 

Jennifer is wearing a simple white tank top with high-rise black pants. The pants have button-on black braces attached, giving a classic and stylish look. The high-rise pants sit above her waistline, allowing the braces to support them. 

I think this is a great outfit and don’t want to critique it. I couldn’t help notice as I watched the videos that Jennifer adjusted her brace straps twice during the 15 minute session. In the second clip, she adjusts her straps once (potentially more when not on camera). This tells me that either the rear junction of the braces is too low relative to her shoulders, or the straps simply run up and down her shoulders, not crossing in the back. We don’t see the rear view of the braces, so we will never know. 

 

 

 

 

 

If the straps cross at the back and the rear junction is fixed, her seamstress could sew excess fabric from the pants onto her waistband, thereby extending the rear brace tabs higher. This was a common solution in decades ago. Here's a photo for illustration:

Pant fabric can be used to extend the brace tabs higher

Looking at how close the placement of the buttons is on the waistline (basically next to each other and not spread apart), I think the braces simply run parallel over the shoulders - identical to the brown pants shown above. As stylish as it may be, the straps have a tendency to slip off the shoulders. And this is what was occurring to Jennifer’s straps during the interviews. 

On another interview with the Breakfast Club, we notice that her left suspender strap is twisted. This helps keep it in place, but as someone comments “Her left suspender is bugging my OCD”, “Me too! She fiddled with it at one point, but then it was still twisted.” It's not natural to have a twisted suspender strap or for the straps to slip off.

Jennifer’s stylist has some options: cross the straps in the back, or otherwise connect them potentially as an H-style, or tighten the straps. By making these adjustments Jennifer would  comfortably wear the braces without having to tinker and adjust them throughout the day.

Discussion:
1. Have you worn braces that slipped off your shoulders during the day?
2. Have you worn parallel braces?
3. Where do you prefer to have the rear junction?

Popped brace buttons

Let's admit it: buttons pop off. It could be the button holding your waistline closed on your pants or skirt, buttons on your shirt or dress, or, as we are focusing here, brace buttons.

Brace buttons carry significant responsibility: to keep your pants up. You rely on them to do their role all the time. In fact, you probably don't think about the importance of their role until it's not there, that is, when the button is not there.






Contrary to belief, buttons popping off is not poor design. In fact, they are to protect the braces. Would you rather have your braces break and be irreparable, or have a button pop off and simply replace the button? I think you'd agree that its easier to replace the button than the braces. There is an important principal of using cheaper replaceable parts (buttons) to minimize damage to more valuable parts (braces). Thus, by allowing buttons to pop off under significant stress this saves the brace loop and ultimately the braces. I would rather have a popped button than a broken button hole on the brace loop or broken braces.

One of the primary advantages argued by those in favor of clip-on suspenders is that buttons pop off and need time to sew them back on, whereas once a clip snaps off, it can be easily reattached. While this is true, it misses the point of that buttons are much more securely attached to the pants than a clip and the style benefits of buttons.

Easy come, easy go: Clip-ons are easy to attach, and easy to snap off

Buttons become detached for one of two reasons:
1. the button is pulled beyond it's capacity, and the thread capacity, and it gives way
2. the button is not under pressure, rather the button threads simply wear out over time resulting in the button slipping off

Let's look further at these 2 reasons.

1. Buttons under pressure
Given enough pull on the braces, buttons will pop off under sufficient strain. In West of Hot Dog (1924) a comedy with Stan Laurel, Stan is on way to collect an inheritance in the small town of Hot Dog when he is robbed by a gang of highwaymen. He's asked at gunpoint to come out of the carriage, which Stan signals he'll happily do by exiting the opposite side of the carriage - in order to make his getaway. Stan turns to exit, with his braces as the only thing available to restrain him. The highwaymen grabs the rear brace straps and pulls as Stan pushes forward. The camera angle shows Stan's rear braces pop off under the strain:

Rear buttons popping off under the strain

 

Stan falls forward, but the braces restrain him. The highwayman pulls the braces and Stan exits the carriage towards the highwayman. Stan's braces no longer hold up his pants and the remainder of the scene shows in comical fashion what happens when Stan raises his hands for the gunman.

Notice that the brace tab button holes on his braces are still intact. All Stan needs is two new buttons to be sewn on to his pants and he can use his braces again. Also notice the durability of the left button - only popping off after significant pressure. So unless someone has the braces in their firm grip and pulling them with all their might, braces generally do not pop-off. 

Clip-on suspenders snap off all the time and would need to be constantly attached, which is annoying - your pants are not held up when your suspender clips keep snapping off! The fact is, clip-on suspenders would have snapped off a lot sooner than the buttons popped off in this case. Therefore, use buttons.

Testing if any buttons will pop off

Brace thread
Ensuring buttons stay attached can partially be addressed by using a strong thread. But balance is needed when determining the strength of the button threads to anchor braces – too strong and the brace strap will break from pressure resulting in the braces not being usable, too weak and the button threads will be constantly failing and buttons popping-off, resulting in the need to sew on buttons. Therefore, use a stronger thread weight and strength for sewing on brace buttons.

 

This brace button is separating from the waistline as the thread is lengthened. The button is about to pop off due to poor quality brace thread

2. Button threads wearing out
Similar to other fabrics, thread can wear out over time, especially with constant use. It's also very thin and can be ground down. As a result, there can be a slow tearing of the thread that eventually releases the button. Sometimes this is quick and sometimes it's a very slow process. 

 

I remember observing a man in a suit with his jacket off one summer day. He was wearing Y-back braces. His rear brace tabs were about an inch from the top of his waistline, as the braces were hanging on by a few strands of thread (similar to the photo of the lady above). It would only be a matter of time before those threads would give way and the buttons would not be secured to the waistline.


I used to think that brace buttons always became detached from strain or when pulled. Maybe it's because that's what I saw in movies and comics. I've come to learn from wearing braces for many years that this is not always the case - sometimes it's simply that the threads wear out.

Case on point, I was working at a professional office a while back. I was wearing a brown pair of dress pants with stripped blue, inverse U-tab braces and a dress shirt. I had taken my suit jacket off for the day (as was customary). I went throughout my day with my braces on display and didn't think anything of it. The pants were securely attached and held in place by my braces - or so I thought.

Late in the afternoon I was walking down the hallway when a considerate lady stopped me to ask if my pants felt secure. I replied, "yes, thanks to my braces," lightly tugging on my straps. She clarified that she meant the rear of my pants.

A popped button on the rear inverse-U tab braces

"Do you know that one of your attachments is disconnected at the back?" I was shocked and instinctively reached back with my hand to confirm it was true. One side of my inverse U-tab had slid all the way up and the rear strap was only anchored by one button. I hadn't felt the change in tension at any point during the day!

"Oh no, you're right. I've popped a brace button," I said, feeling self-conscious and blushing. 

She smiled and said, "Don't worry, that can happen with any button. Buttons are easy to sew on. I bet you can sew another one on easily."

 

"Yes, I'll have to do that," I replied.

 

She continued on by stating how much she liked that I wear braces. "Your braces are so stylish and befitting of you. You look very dapper and professional. I hope you don't stop wearing braces because one button popped off?"

 

"No, definitely not," I replied. I thanked her and forced a smile.

 

While one button was detached and provided no support, I still felt secure and confident that my pants would stay where they should be, which is something you can't say for those wearing belts.

On another occasion in the winter, I was wearing jeans, a t-shirt, sweater, and jacket outside in the snow. As I was walking along I felt my front right strap lose tension. I didn't stop as I figured the button had popped off and slipped down my pants and into my boot, as it was sewn on the inside of the waistband. Unfortunately, when I got inside to inspect, the inner button had popped off. But I couldn't find it when I shook my pants and looked in my boot. It must have pulled above the waistline and when it popped off, it fell outside the pants rather than inside. As the button was white and had fallen in white snow, I couldn't find it. I sewed another button on to replace the lost one and I was good to go.

In the summer time, with all the snow melted, I was walking along the same path with a friend. She pointed and said, there's a button. Is that one of your suspender buttons?

I looked down and picked up the white button.

Yes, I said, slipping it into my pocket. That button popped off my pants in the wintertime and I couldn't find it in the snow.

I like your button suspenders, she said. 

I agreed.

In conclusion, don't be too concerned about buttons popping off - it's a right of passage for us wearing braces.

Time to bring back the classics

Do you look at old photographs and magically insert yourself into the scene, such as this one...

Men strolling down the sidewalk in Paris, 1928

I'd love to join in with these men as they stroll down the sidewalk in 1928, all wearing high-waisted pants with braces. The photo's description says it was during a heatwave in 1928 - I'd be walking around without a suit jacket as well.

Do you imagine a time when people put thought into how they dressed, even on the weekend? Back when men wore suits, and women wore dresses regularly. Some people refer to this as the Golden age of mens style.

While I’d love to be transported into that bygone era. I realize that life was challenging back then and things we take for granted today were unheard of back then. I’d like to focus on the fashion aspect of the bygone era, rather than the troubles.

Here's a photo I could see myself in:

Photo of a new family

Even at home the man is wearing a suit. He's conveniently pulled back his suit jacket to reveal his braces supporting his high-rise pants. Notice the proper placement of the buttons - above the center pleat and then to the side above the pocket. The inverse-U tab appears a bit stretched, but works well to support his pants over the front waistline.


Women wore dresses or high-waisted skirts. Stockings were worn over their legs and held in place with suspenders (also called garters) which sometimes needed adjusting.

Adjusting the suspenders

Men always wore suits, even at home. When the man came home, he would take off his hat (another stylish accessory now forgotten), remove his suit jacket, and carry on with his day. No one would think twice about seeing his high-waisted pants held up with braces. It was totally acceptable to have the braces visible. In fact, it was appreciated, as the pants lengthened his appearance, did not drag on the ground, or get torn at the hem.

A father reading with his son. His suit jacket is off and he looks very comfortable

Both men and women understood that suspenders were an essential accessory - for holding up pants and for holding up stockings. High-waisted pants, skirts, and stockings were secured by braces. No decent individual would expect anything less; they were effective and comfortable. Braces proliferated the everyday scene in the home and at the office.

At home: the man's suit jacket is off, sleeves rolled-up, and his braces are totally acceptable

 

 

At the office: every man's suit jacket is off and it's acceptable to show their braces

If you walked into any office building, you would not be surprised to see the majority of men wearing braces. Braces would be quietly doing their part, keeping mens pants looking respectable and dapper.

This was before the days of throw-away fashion. People bought quality clothing and reused them over and over – or handed them down repeatedly. As such, some clothes could be loose, requiring braces to keep the lower-half of the outfit in place. People expected braces to be worn to fill this need.



Besides looking at old photographs, there are certain communities and events that celebrate fashion from the past. There are annual tweed rides in major cities. Or take Goodwood Revival festival in England. In addition to racing cars and planes, there’s also the style aspect. People dress in vintage styles, with plenty of braces and high-waisted skirts around. At 2019's festival, the winner of the Best Dressed Competition in the men's category wore a 1940's civilian style of grey, high-rise pants with stripped braces on a blue shirt and a vintage, red tie and grey hat:

Of course he won - he looks like he stepped out of the 1940's!

For those who appreciate an era when men wore braces, and hats were commonplace, these events are a welcomed reprieve from modern life.

Discussion

• Have you attended events with vintage themes?
• Do you wear clothes that are styled from a bygone era?