next question is the style of connections for buttons. Button-on braces have 2 distinct styles: inverse-V and inverse-U tabs (or connections).
Various brace connections (from left to right): inverse-V, cord, and inverse-U tabs |
As implied by the name, an inverse-V tab has two small tabs, or strips of leather, that fan out from the shoulder strap and attach to the buttons on the waistline (left braces on the photo above). An inverse-U tab also has two tabs that attach to the two waistline buttons, but has a single leather strap that loops onto itself from one button to the other, centering on the shoulder strap (right braces on the photo above). Depending on the tension on the braces, it can resemble an inverse-V shape, but is more oval.
Comfortable and relaxed, the inverse-U tabs keep everything aligned |
Both styles have their advantages and disadvantages. Inverse-V
tabs are the traditional choice and were the first to appear in
history. They offer a rigid anchor from the shoulder strap to the
waistline. For example, leaning forward results in tension in the
shoulder strap, pulling the inverse-V tab, putting pressure on the
side brace button, and pulling the side of the waistline in the same direction.
Inverse-V tabs are perfect for keeping the waistline at a constant height, especially
the side of the pant waistline.
Historically,
supporting the front (center seam) and side seam of the pants was important. In fact, for the front brace tabs, the traditional inverse-V tabs have the brace tabs closest to the center about half an inch longer in length compared to the tabs on the side (see photo below). This is to accommodate more portly men and to
position the shoulder strap further to the side then straight down the
middle of the chest. Look for this when you are considering purchasing inverse-V tab braces, as a way to discern if the braces are a true vintage piece (or replica). This style of tabs was very common in the 1930s and 40s.
Inverse-V tabs. Notice the center brace tabs are slightly longer than the side brace tabs |
Inverse-U tabs are somewhat more modern. They
allow the shoulder strap to glide along the inverted U arch, in unison
with the body’s movement. This provides more freedom and superior
comfort. For example, leaning forward results in the shoulder strap
sliding forward to the center button; leaning backwards, the strap slides
backwards. At the rear, when you wear Y-back braces, when you lean left,
the tab will shift to the left; when you lean right, the tab will shift to the right. Everything in line, everything comfortable.
To illustrate further, below is a photo of Robert Shaw
playing Doyle Lonnegan in The Sting, 1973. He is wearing inverse-U
tab braces, which I've highlighted in red. To show the difference, I've over-layed what an inverse-V tab brace would look like for comparison. In this still capture, as he bends down, the change in the shoulder straps position shifts. Notice how his strap on the inverse-U tab (red outline) shifts towards the inner center button, accommodating his body movement. This is in
contrast to if he was wearing inverse-V tabs (the blue outline). The
inverse-V tab would have stayed rigid and put strain on the outer side button, pulling up that area. Either way, his waistline stays well supported.
Doyle Lonnegan from The Sting, 1973 |
As you can likely see by now, inverse-U tabs result in less strain on the brace buttons compared to inverse-V tabs. This is because the inverse-U style allow the tension to be shifted as it glides along the arch, and minimizes tension over the two brace buttons rather than being locked into one position. This is likely the reason this style has become a predominant style for button braces, and my theory is that it results in less buttons popping off. This concept was fully used by President Suspenders in gliding and shifting to the body’s position.
Ad for President Suspenders showing the conforming nature to every movement |
Further to this point, lumberjacks need braces to keep their jeans up during their strenuous manual labour. The most common style of braces for lumberjacks is X-back braces with inverse-U connections at the front. This provides solid support at the rear and flexibility for movement at the front. There are also inverse-V tabs at the front, but I generally see inverse-U tabs.
All this to say, I do still see a fair share of inverse-V connections and like them as well.
Drawbacks
What are the drawbacks of each?
For inverse-U tabs, if one of the buttons pops off (which is rare), the
shoulder strap pulls to the end of the half circle and becomes slack.
This would not have as large an impact for inverse-V tabs. If a button pops
off, the tension in the shoulder strap remains relatively strong because the remaining
brace tab is not dependent on the other brace tab to function. The
released brace tab now flaps around, making its presence known. The
inverse-U tab is dependent on both buttons staying anchored,
whereas the inverse-V connection is not.
For inverse-V tabs there is more tension on the brace
buttons, as it cannot glide. This is generally the case on the side brace buttons, which experiences more strain as people bend forward throughout the day. Case in point, this happened to this lady in the photo below:
Note the popped button and loose brace strap |
When braces were very popular, most men chose inverse-U tabs. This is likely because of the comfort and flexibility they offered. If a button happened to pop off, you simply looped the dangling tab to the remaining anchor.
What should you wear: inverse-U or inverse-V tabs? Ultimately it’s a decision on whether you prefer a more rigid anchors or
prefer to have your shoulder straps glide along and shift with your
movements.
Personally, I have both inverse-V and inverse-U
tabs and enjoy both. But if you ask me when do I forget that I’m
wearing braces because they conform to my movement, it’s when I’m wearing inverse-U tabs. They
accommodate the body’s movements so effortlessly!
Discussion:
- Which style do you prefer: inverse-V or inverse-U tabs? Why?
- Have you noticed how inverse-U tabs glide to align with your movement?
in the photo at the top you refer to a "cord connection" but don't mention it again. A man I met many years ago in paris wore a pair like that, he said they were "cat gut" which i assume may just be in reference to the thin appearance ( violin strings from the 1800s were actually made from cat guts) but I've never been able to find a pair of suspenders or even photos of some that thin, any suggestions?
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