Now that we've addressed that braces should be worn with buttons (see previous post), where exactly should the buttons be located?
The placement of buttons along the waistline is critically important to wearing braces. It determines where the brace straps lie and the "line of the pants". In fact, for those who know, you can see when a man is wearing braces even when the braces are covered by a vest or jacket. This is because of the way the pant material drapes (falls) down the legs. Another indication is where the pants meet the shoes. Not convinced? This is best illustrated in a photo. Check out this vintage photograph of this slightly portly gentleman:
The placement of buttons along the waistline is critically important to wearing braces. It determines where the brace straps lie and the "line of the pants". In fact, for those who know, you can see when a man is wearing braces even when the braces are covered by a vest or jacket. This is because of the way the pant material drapes (falls) down the legs. Another indication is where the pants meet the shoes. Not convinced? This is best illustrated in a photo. Check out this vintage photograph of this slightly portly gentleman:
Even with a vest on I can tell he is wearing braces by the way his pants lie. The material is generally flush against his torso. If you know where to look you can see two lines that straighten the pant leg. One is over the centre pleat or line of the leg, and the other is to the side. I've highlighted them below:
These lines cannot be the result of a belt. Rather, they are caused by a brace button that is anchored at this point along the waistline. By placing the brace button at these locations, the pants lay flush and clean. Going further, I'd expect this gentlemen's braces underneath his vest to be something like this:
I've added a horizontal line for where I think his pant waistline is, and then the brace strap attached to the waistline, giving the visible signs of the pant lines. This gives a perfect drape as the pants fall straight from the waistline to the shoes and look very classy.
Unfortunately the hedge is blocking our view of his shoes. If we could see his shoes we would likely see a slight "break" in the pant materials that is maintained when the man moves. The pant hem touches the brim of the shoes without having excess materials at the bottom of the leg. This can only be achieved if the pants maintain their same position, relative to the body. And that can only be achieved with braces. If both of these are present, you can be sure the man is wearing braces. These are the sure signs that a man is wearing braces. To the trained eye, you can confidently say this man is wearing braces.
I've had people stare at my pants with their clean drape, with the pants falling gently over the shoes with no excess materials. When they don't see a belt, they ask me how my pants stay up. I'm ever so happy to reveal my secret: I pull back my suit jacket to reveal my braces and the clean lines that are create by braces and the proper button placements.
Therefore, when wearing braces, it is critical to know where to place the buttons to achieve the proper drape. Buttons that are too close to the mid-section are uncomfortable and get in the way. If the buttons are too far apart they do not adequately support the drape or pant lines. This is true for both the front and back of the pants.
I've added a horizontal line for where I think his pant waistline is, and then the brace strap attached to the waistline, giving the visible signs of the pant lines. This gives a perfect drape as the pants fall straight from the waistline to the shoes and look very classy.
Unfortunately the hedge is blocking our view of his shoes. If we could see his shoes we would likely see a slight "break" in the pant materials that is maintained when the man moves. The pant hem touches the brim of the shoes without having excess materials at the bottom of the leg. This can only be achieved if the pants maintain their same position, relative to the body. And that can only be achieved with braces. If both of these are present, you can be sure the man is wearing braces. These are the sure signs that a man is wearing braces. To the trained eye, you can confidently say this man is wearing braces.
I've had people stare at my pants with their clean drape, with the pants falling gently over the shoes with no excess materials. When they don't see a belt, they ask me how my pants stay up. I'm ever so happy to reveal my secret: I pull back my suit jacket to reveal my braces and the clean lines that are create by braces and the proper button placements.
Therefore, when wearing braces, it is critical to know where to place the buttons to achieve the proper drape. Buttons that are too close to the mid-section are uncomfortable and get in the way. If the buttons are too far apart they do not adequately support the drape or pant lines. This is true for both the front and back of the pants.
Where to place brace buttons
Alan Flusser points out that there should be four buttons at the front: one button over
each of the main pleats of the pants (inner buttons), and the other two just forward of the side seam (outer buttons). Always start with the main pleat for the inner button, as this is where you will achieve the proper drape and a clean line on the pants. It doesn't matter if it's pleated pants or flat front, there will always be a line that should be straight. The button over the main line/pleat will anchor the pants and create the perfect drape. All tuxedos are made this way to have a crisp, straight line.
Moving to the outer buttons at the front, the placement depends on the width of the brace tabs and the size of the wearer. Some inverse-V tabs are narrower, while some inverse-U tabs are wider (more on this below). I've found that when I place the buttons 3 to 4 inches from the button at the pleat to the next button, this accommodates most brace tabs and is comfortable and provides superior support. As for waist size, for portly individuals, I'd recommend a wider placement of 4 or 4.5 inches apart to provide more surface area on the waistline.
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| Notice the button placement at the waistline: inner button above the main seam and outer button about 3-4 inches apart. This achieves a nice drape of the pants |
Over the years I've worn braces with button placement at various positions along the waistband. I've learned that when there's a centre pleat, the inner buttons should be directly overtop to ensure this line stays taut. However, if the pants are more casual, such as with corduroy or jeans, the buttons can be shifted to the side by half to one inch. I have a pair of corduroy pants with buttons placed directly over the side seam and then 4.25 inches forward for the inner buttons. This means that the inner buttons are not directly over the centre of my pant leg, but that's fine, the pants are sufficiently supported. I find the brace straps shift slightly to the side of my chest and sit comfortably.
In the back, there should be two buttons regardless of if you are wearing Y-back and X-back style braces. The buttons should be equidistant from the center of the fork of the braces, so it falls naturally. Here it depends on the style of braces you plan to wear – Y-back braces require buttons closer together (about 1.5 inch on each side of the middle seam). While buttons for X-back braces should be spaced a little farther apart. I’ve found that 2-3 inches on each side of middle seam is comfortable. If you happen to have 4 buttons with X-back braces (such as those illustrated below), then they should be farther apart.
Width between buttons
One common beginner mistake I see often is front buttons that are placed to close together (ie, less than 3 inches together). The placement of the buttons in the front of the pants is important to supporting the line of the pants. Let's review these two photos:
The one on the left has the buttons too close together, in addition to being too close to the centre of the pants. The one on the right has the buttons placed too far to the side, which supports the side seam but the main pleat and line will not be crisp. Aim for balance and support of the pants by positioning the buttons in between these 2 positions. This highlights the important of placing the front buttons on the main seam followed by the side seam. The placement of these buttons on the pants below could be improved by aligning them up with the front pleat.
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| Buttons should be aligned with the front seam, generally with the pleat, marked by the red dots |
When wearing braces with inverse-V tabs, if the button placement is improper, one tab may curve out from the waist. This looks strange and gets caught on things. I've circled an example in this photo below:
It is for this reason that, historically, inverse-V tab braces were made with one tab longer than the other, by about half an inch. The tabs that connect to buttons closer to the centre were longer than the tabs that were to the side seam to address this issue. This is one way to identify if inverse-V braces are vintage and more historically accurate.
Note, this problem does not arise with inverse-U tabs as the brace strap glides along the U-tab as it's not fixed in position.
Having worn braces for decades now, my preference is to have the front buttons placed as far apart as practical. I always start with the inner buttons above the main seam and then the outer buttons along the side seam. This works out to the buttons being about 4 to 4.5 inches apart for how I like it. This provides superior coverage over the front of the waistline.
I have a pair of grey high-rise pants with buttons above the main seam and above the side seam. When I wear inverse-U brace tabs, the straps slide comfortably along with my body's movement. With inverse-V brace tabs, the straps keep my waistline in line and tight.
What if you are wearing clip-on suspenders - where do you place the clip? This is precisely the problem with clip-on suspenders - they do not adequately support the pants! You must compromise and place the clips either on the main seam or the the middle between the main seam and side seam. Try a number of locations and see what feels most comfortable for you.
Clip placement on the back
Just as the placement of the buttons on the front is important, it is even more important on the back. This is generally the place where newbie suspender-wearers get confused, as they will likely be wearing X-back style, and attach the clips either too close together or too far apart on the waistline:
1. If the buttons are too close together, you can get a wedgie.
Also, if the clips are too far apart, you may cause the waistline to bulge outward, ruining the flat line.
Therefore, it is critical that you determine the right balance for the rear buttons along the waistline. They should be equidistant from the center of the rear seam, but not too far that they create a bulge out. This exact distance depends on the size of the individual, the position of the back junction, and length of the back straps, so this will vary by suspenders and braces. Here is an example of appropriate distance of the straps at the rear:
Belt Loops
Pants or skirts to be worn with braces should not accommodate a belt and so should have no belt loops. More to the point, to be historically authentic, belt loops should be removed, if you will be wearing braces.
Roominess at the waistline
Pants or skirts to be worn with braces should be a little larger at the waist so that they are actually "suspended" from the shoulders. This achieves a very comfortable style.
Pants or skirts to be worn with braces should be a little larger at the waist so that they are actually "suspended" from the shoulders. This achieves a very comfortable style.
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| The skirt on the right is too large around the waist; on the left is perfect size. |
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| The front side of the skirt from the left picture displays the correct waist size, button placement and suspension (unfortunately the brace material is deteriorating) |
I understand that the majority of suit pants and skirts are made ready to wear, and the majority of society does not wear braces. As such, the majority of pants and skirts come with belt loops, and so people keep the belt loops on when wearing braces (even with buttons). However, if you are to be historically and functionally correct, the belt loops should be removed. Think of it like wearing a cuff-link shirt with no cuff-links – you know something’s missing.
Here's a example of how not to wear braces. Not only does he have belt loops, he also has poor button placement - the buttons are not aligned with the pleats and are too close to the center.
Wearing belts and braces at the same time - biggest newbie blunder
Pants and skirts to be worn with braces should not be worn with a belt. You don’t need both a belt and braces to perform the same function of holding up your pants or skirt. There is redundancy here, in addition to looking bad. Therefore, the wearer must decide how to wear the pants – with braces or with a belt.
Pants and skirts to be worn with braces should not be worn with a belt. You don’t need both a belt and braces to perform the same function of holding up your pants or skirt. There is redundancy here, in addition to looking bad. Therefore, the wearer must decide how to wear the pants – with braces or with a belt.
To conclude, if there is one area that separates newbie brace wearers from seasoned veterans, it is in button placement. An expert brace wearer can tell the moment they see someone wearing braces if they are worn correct or not. So take note of these important details for the next time you sew on buttons or wear braces.
Discussion time:
Discussion time:
- Where do you find button placement to be most comfortable?
- Have you noticed vintage photographs and wondered why the gentleman's pants are staying up and why they have such crisp, clean pant lines?
- Do you prefer buttons on the inside or outside?
- Do you find your buttons are popping off?
- Have any humorous stories of buttons popping off?
Note: all photos are used solely for non-commercial use and to illustrate braces in fashion. No plagiarism is intended.
